Masonry furnace with their own hands: step-by-step guide, spit, schemes and drawings

The stove is a multifunctional, complex in the technical sense. It is within its limits that the fuel is recycling, obtaining heat and the removal of combustion products outwards. If the furnace laying is planned with their own hands, it is required to strictly observe the rules verified in practice, guaranteeing the normal operation of the aggregate.

Those who wish to learn how to perfectly build a brick stove, we will find detailed information on all important issues that are interested in an independent master. In the submitted article in the finest details, the technological specifics of the constructions are given, the main postulates of the people and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information provided by us will have effective assistance in the construction of a brick furnace. All its components will be impeccable to cope with the duties, and the construction itself will last for many years without complaints. To help homemade craftsmen, we selected ordinal schemes, photo images, video recommendations.

Constructive components of brick furnaces

Before embarking on the construction of the stove, it should be declared its purpose. The heating, cooking and drying units have significant constructive differences that initially need to be considered. There is a reasonable difference and in orders developed by the burning for the exact masonry of bricks.

There are many furnace structures that can be divided into groups for intended purpose:

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Heating furnace with curly finish

Traditional heating unit - fireplace

Furnace with a layered for heating and drying

Cooking furnace in a private house

Universal heating and cooking unit

Russian whitening stove with damper

Brick oven with hot water tank

Stove Kamenka in the Russian bath

Country houses, as a rule, not having connections to centralized heating networks are mainly equipped with universal cooking and heating units. The back of them is unfolded into residential premises, facial in the kitchen. The front side usually has a cooking panel and main furnaces.

Suppose that we are interested in the universal option, with the construction of which we will carefully understand. Like all, it consists of a foundation, an array, which includes the furnace with the devices belonging to it and air ducts, and chimney.

Foundation: Device Features

The base on which the stove has to be installed is always built separately from the foundation of the house.

This fact is justified by a number of good reasons:

  • The construction of a brick has an impressive weight, the drawdown of the soil beneath it will be much more than under the walls of the house.
  • Linear dimensions of the unit operating in high temperature mode are unstable. The stoves are characterized by some moves, which, in principle, is contraindicated to the walls of the construction.
  • A separate location of the foundation provides a sufficient technological indenter between the furnace and building structures, which ultimately prevents and reduces the likelihood of fire.

In addition, the furnace constructed on a separate foundation is easier to repair, it is easier to upgrade and rebuild if necessary.

The foundation of the stoves is made of boot or bricks, using a limestone or cement solution as a connecting composition. In the construction of the base is prohibited to use the clay mixture, because It quickly collapses in constantly possessing some humidity of soils.

Monolithic concrete base for construction stove

For the construction of a brick stove, a monolithic concrete base is suitable. The carrying capacity of it is required to be calculated in front of the device according to the formulas of reinforced railway plates, before the construction of the stove, such a foundation is enhanced by a metal corner, laid in all edges

Moreover, the composition of the binder solution is selected depending on the degree of humidity of the underlying rocks. For the foundation device in low-voltage soils, a limestone or lime-cement solution is used, only cement formulations are used in wet soils.

In terms of the foundation should be at a minimum of 5 - 7 cm more furnace on each side. The depth of its embedding depends on the dimensions of the unit, on average it is 0.75 m. For one-storey dachaks, it is possible to succumb to only 0.5 m. The furnace for a two-storey house should stand on the foundation with a capacity of 1.0 m.

On our site there is an article where we examined in detail the process of arrangement of a brick stove for giving. Read more - go on.

Waterproofing foundation before masonry furnace

In terms of oven foundation, there must be more constructed aggregate at a minimum of 5 cm with each of the parties. Before masonry massif, the foundation must be closed with waterproofing

During the construction of the foundation from Booth, it is not brought to the floor level, leaving free 14 cm. This free space is filled with two rows of bricks. Foundation found to the floor level is closed with two layers of rubberoid or roofing for waterproofing. Instead of these insulating materials, a layer of 2 cm from clay or the same cement screed is used.

Array of Furnace: Construction Specificity

The main components of the furnace massif are the housing, the fuel and smoke. In the masonry of the hull and channels holding the smoke inside the furnace to increase the heat transfer, a full-length red brick is used. Lining, i.e. The internal lining of the furnace, produce refractory refractory bricks.

The housing with smoke rates is put on the grinding solution. In the lining, a mixture of chamotte powder with refractory clay is used. The thickness of the seams during the masonry seek to minimize. The maximum thickness in the laying of the case and channels is considered 5 mm, in the facing of the furnace, the seams should not exceed 2-3 cm.

We will notice that the furnace case and the lining can not be tied up. These must be two separate structures, because They heat up to different temperature levels and expand, respectively, in different ways.

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Construction of a brick furnace array

Brick Heating Aggregate Top

Cooking panel in the design of the country stove

Laying of smoke canals of brick

For furnace masonry, you can purchase ready-made chammed and mold mixtures. True, a solution from clay with sand without any problems can be prepared by itself. The proportions of clay and sand in such self-made composition are selected depending on the thickness of the clay, the share varies in the range from 1: 0 to 1: 3.

An important condition that ensures the strength of the structure is observing the dressing of the seams. This rule will prevent the destruction of the walls. Before performing masonry work, red bricks are soaked for 10-15 minutes in water tanks so that they do not "pull" water from the "binder" solution, refractory simply wipe.

During the masonry, the independent liver should:

  • Constantly check the horizontal of the series and process the diagonal. If there is even a minor deviation to diagonals, this is already a signal for disassembling the upper rows and error corrections.
  • Fully filling the seams with a solution. To regularly wipe the construction side with the wind and remove the surplus of the binder.
  • Wipe from inside the surface smoke with a moistened urine brush. It is required to prevent the formation of roughness.

In order to perfectly build a brick stove, as experienced cooks do, it is necessary to prejacitate each row dry. Having tried the position of bricks without a solution, you can immediately see errors. In addition, it is so easier to place and perform a climb.

Dry layout order before construction

In order to prevent missile and errors during masonry, experienced cooks first lay out a row of dry, i.e. without applying a solution. After checking the position of the bricks, attaching them according to the coach, then placed on the furnace with the solution

Without dry layout, only straight rows, which are not affecting structural parts, devices and smoke rims are allowed.

Pipe: options and rules of construction

Smoke channels are laid out of a full-length red brick. For ligaments of elements within the attic, a limestone or cement-lime solution is used. The outer part of the pipe is built solely on the cement solution, because Clay is easily and quickly washed with rainwater and dissolved with winter precipitation.

According to the layout of the pipe brick stoves are divided into three types, it is:

  • Natural. The smoke channel is a direct continuation of the unit, towers right above its enclosure with smoke revolutions.
  • Indigenous. Such a pipe is put on a separate foundation, with the stove are connected to the corners of the scene.
  • Wall. These chimney channels are arranged directly in the capital walls located in the middle of the house.

Small stoves for country houses build mainly with road pipes, they are less useful. The smoke channel should be exactly vertical and clearly designed by the size of the section and height.

At the level of crossing the pipe of the wooden ceiling, it is satisfied with the cutting, broadening, which closes the opening, but not adjacent to the marked materials. In the gap between the pipe and the overlap lay the palable or soft asbestos impregnated with a clay solution.

Hoody chimney on a brick oven

Small stoves for country houses that owners are solved by their own hands are most often equipped with a housing smoke. It is installed on the overlap of the oven

When laying the pipe over the roof of the brick form the otter - broadening that protects against condensate condensate. Within the attic, the chimney is plastered and whiten so that you can immediately determine the places of leaks along the cracks that appeared in the whim.

Metallic - metal cap on the legs protecting from the plug in the canal of atmospheric water is on the constructed pipe. At the same time, this device exhaust sparks, which is extremely necessary if the roof is made of flexible tiles or ondulin.

Nuances of finishing stove

The walls of the stove, folded from a good brick, and even decorated by the outside, optionally, to separate: bleve and plaster. If there are no chips and cracks on the elements of masonry, during construction, verticals with horizontals were observed, the heating structure and it would be wonderful.

On the oven masonry from high-quality brick, it is enough to perform a grout and gently split the seams. Without extra finish, the heating and cooking structure looks better.

If there are still claims to furnace walls, there are defects on them, and the masonry is not ideal, then the finish is very necessary. Before the production of finishing works, the outer surface is thoroughly melted, rub in a piece of bricks to improve adhesion, and then they are waiting for her burden.

The exhausted unit can be plastering using a melting solution used in the masonry. To increase strength to the composition, add 1% asbestos chip. The heating options are littered with tiles - this is the most reliable and gas-tight, but the most time-consuming type of finishes.

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Pokes - Typical Type of Finishing

Facing a combination with facing

Budget lining with ordinary cafeter

Luxurious facing with spectacular tiles

Probable complications for the cook

In the construction project, a furnace is usually provided in a typical project house, the detection of chimney, convenient rooms for maintenance and operation. It is much more difficult to arrange a heating and cooking unit in the house under an individual idea. Even more difficult if the house is already built.

It happens that after choosing a successful, in the view of the owner, the location of the furnace, and even after the construction of the foundation, suddenly discover that the chimney will cross the beam of overlapping or rafylic. What to do in such a situation?

The way out of the position in this case is associated with two difficult and fairly expensive options. In the first of these, you will have to sort out the overlap and change the position of the beams and rafting legs, in the second - to make it down and reopen the foundation of the stove.

In order to eliminate such troubles, the foundation in the built house should be determined, whether the chimney of the integrity of existing already structures will violate. If there is an opportunity and access to not yet covered beams, you need to check the exact position of the components of the plated furnace.

If in your own house built a brick stove is the most convenient to put everything in the place, the projection of which crosses the elements of the roofing system, it is better to shift them. In general, of all the options it is desirable to choose the one that will be easier and cheaper in the implementation.

In the design of the furnace and selection of a suitable model, the following rules should be taken into account:

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Multifunctional brick stove

Differences on dimensions and heat capacity

Location of aggregates near capital walls

Heated with one furnace of related rooms

Big brick oven in the middle of the room

Big brick oven in the middle of the room

The location of the furnace near the outer wall

Distance between the wall and chimney

Masonry of the simplified version of the Russian stove

We will analyze on a specific example the specifics of the construction of a simplified version of the Russian stove. Like all the aggregates of this category, it relates to the cooking and heating equipment, which means that the cooking panel is equipped with a hob. The pop-up in it is also two, which allows you to heat the room, prepare delicious dishes and bake bread.

A feature of this particular design is the presence of a specific gold collector located under the downhill. Collecting ash is made through a brick channel arranged under a grate grid. You can empty the alignment from the street, thanks to which the house will not be traditional for pollution stoves.

In order to push the metal cake to collect ash, it was possible to extend the street in the foundation of the house, which is connected to the foundation of the stove. This design must be located under the floor. From the outdoor side, all this is closed with a warmed flap.

Construction of a Russian stove with an external gold collector

In this design of the Russian stove, an external decorator is provided, empty from the street, there is a carbon monoxide accumulation compartment and a place for baking bread

Unique design of the furnace foundation

The foundation for this version of the stove is also special. Build it as follows. Under the foundation, the soil is chosen by 85 cm. The width of the pit should be convenient for the base device. The bottom of the production fall asleep with sand and tram so that in the end the sand layer was 10 cm.

A metal case is installed on the aligned base, in which 4 rows of brick masonry on the cement solution are laid. At a depth of 12 cm to the floor level, waterproofing, from which a guarantee is constructed: hollow foundation. This site of the construction is plastered so that you can immediately determine the cracks - the gas leakage places.

Such a solution allows immediately after the furnace to close the dehower of the chimney, because the damp gas will be discharged into a hollow foundation, without entering the room. As a result, heat engineering indicators of the unit are significantly improved. The ash is removed periodically from the metal drawer nominated to the street.

The candle-collecting channel is built of bricks at the same time with the construction of the stove basement. For its formation, metal corners are installed. Conduct the channel to the hole done at the same level in the foundation of the house.

Table with consumption of materials for construction stove

Selecting a certain design of the furnace and the corresponding co-order provides the ability to accurately calculate the expenditures of the material for the construction of an aggregate

Challenge in detail

The size of the simplified brick furnace presented in the drawings is 77 × 116 cm, which is 3rd bricks in width and 4.5 bricks in length. From the floor level, this stove is laid out in a metal frame, welded from a corner, or in a solid fastener case.

Scheme of apartments 10 first rows of masonry stove

Together with the laying of starting rows of a simplified Russian stove, a channel device is performed, designed to remove ash from the outside of the foundation of the house

The following scheme depicts 10 rows of stove masonry. After laying the 4th row on the walls, a metal corner is installed, which is required to form a channel. In the 5th row, the channel overlapping is arranged over the corners.

Before laying the 7th row, a sheet of asbestos is laid. After the laying of the 7th row, the formed channel is trimmed with sheet metal.

Construction of the stove from the 5th to 13 row is the construction of a focus. In the 8th row again put metal stripes. In the 9th, 11th and 13th row, brick put on the edge.

Scheme Charge Masonry Brick Stove

Spitches are intended for the competent construction of a brick stove. These schemes demonstrate the order of masonry from 11 to 25 row with the installation of the cooking panel

After masonry of the 14th row, the stove under construction is usually equalized with the floor, it happens that in order to bring to the floor level, it is required to put another row. The floor around the stove is cutting with sheet steel.

From the 15th row, i.e. Approximately from the field level, the brick structure is replaced in a metal case or frame from the corner. In the 16th mounted the damper, which is needed for the removal and collection of ash. The frontal stove above this damper will need to sew metal.

For fixing the pensive door in the 17th and 18th row, steel stripes are put. In the 18th, the laying of overlapping of a guideline is performed.

In the 19th row, the masonry establishes the corners to which the extended grate grill will be relying. Through it, the ash on the channel will be displayed in the metal box for its collection.

"Under", the foundation of the main furnace of the Russian stove, put out of heat-resistant bricks. In the 20th row of masonry put a metal frame with a door designed to clean the oven. Over the 22nd, metal stripes are placed again.

The masonry of the 23rd row is made by refractory bricks. From the back of the unit, the masonry is performed in 3 bricks put on the edge, and in 1/8 bricks installed by plastics.

Over the 23rds, a hob of a cast-iron slab is fixed, the dimensions of which are 71 × 41 cm. In this row, it is recommended to strengthen the steel strip. 24 row all put plastics.

The masonry from the 25th row is again made from refractory bricks, which put on the edge. Now they install a deaf door with dimensions of 25 × 21 cm. It performs the valve function in a standard Russian oven.

Performing brick masonry stove 26 - 35 row

Charger Guide The Stoves Masonry - Excellent Help Beginners and Experienced Masters, not familiar with this design.

In the left back corner of the 26th row, bricks put on the edge for the formation of the chimney. All others in the specified row are stacked by plastics, and the laying is reinforced with steel stripes. In bricks, mounted plastics, shy the inner edge of the lower edge.

At the level of the 26th row there are metal sheets intended for baking bread. They should fit in the stove of 3 pieces, taking into account the gaps between the walls of the unit and these bets.

In length, medium and right metal sheets are equal to the size of the stove. The left is shorter than that segment that was formed in 26 row. So that the left short sheet does not resist, it is fixed in the far corner of the curmmer to the middle man.

In the 27th row, the entire brick is placed on the plastics. Before building a 28th row in a compartment, designed to baking a bread, arrange a support from bricks. The overlap will be relying on it.

In the 28th row, the front-distance part of the stove and the left rear angle, in which the chimney is formed, put out of the bricks put on the edge. The front of the unit reinforce the steel plate. The rest of the space is filled with bricks laid by plastics.

Then completely two rows, it is 29 and 30, build from the bricks installed on the edge. In the 31st row form a cleaning hole. As it should be, the hole is also enhanced by the steel strip.

At the level of the 33rd row, the plafhous bricks between the chimns make jumpers. They are lowered half relative to the bricks installed on the edge. In the 34th row there are a steam valve and a view. In this row, reinforce the metal strip again.

Device and masonry of the chimney

Armenia from the 36th to the 40th row show how the transition from the device of the upper part of the Russian stove to the chimney laying

In the 35th row again all bricks put an edge when laying the frontal part. All other bricks are plashed. In the 36th and 37th rows, all elements are placed. To increase the chimney cross section to optimize the movement of gases, around it the bricks of the 37th row are shoodying the lower inner edge.

After put the nozzle, collect it from 5 plaffers of bricks. It is connected by dressing from 31 nearby. It should turn out so that the 38th row was the penultimate. The asbestos leaf to the ceiling is pressed the 39th. This is an insulating gasket.

From the 39th row, the smoke canal are put on the bricks. To speed up the construction process, it is permissible to use concrete or ceramic blocks.

Traditional metal devices are used in the arrangement:

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Latch for brick tube stove

Cast iron door with pressure fixture

Door pissed the furnace furnace

Brick stove grill grate

Doors for cleaning smoke channels

Cast iron cooking stove

Heavy Cabinet for Cooking Units

Water Engine Box for Outdoor Placement

The furnace devices are necessary for the correct operation of the aggregate. With their help, there is an operational ignition of the stove, the heat transfer adjustment, the technological holes are overlapped, the channels are cleaned from combustion products.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The visual demonstration of the masonry of the brick stove will help to get used to the essence of the process:

The construction of a brick stove is difficult to call a light deal, but it is quite accessible to independent execution. Guided by the manual and coaches presented by us, you can build an excellent oven with your own hands. Information about the general rules for the construction of heating and cooking units will help to control the work of hired livenists.

If you have experience in laying brick stoves, please share it with our readers. Maybe you know some subtleties about which we did not mention in this material? Leave your comments in the communication unit, which is located below.

Wood furnaces were used by millennia. Today they are still distributed both in classical performance and in addition. Designs are made of brick, metal, stone, and so on. In each case, the schemes will differ in which you can make sure the example of the collection. But despite this, there are general rules for collecting furnaces with their own hands.

stove laying with their own hands

Brick oven

The brick stove is an important emphasis in the interior of the room. When it is erected, it is important to take into account many aspects, on which not only the practicality depends, but also the safety of residents. The most popular Holland, Russian and Swede. The first does not require much space, Russian is more overall and multifunctional, and the Swede is used mainly for heating.

Varieties of brick stoves

Brick furnaces are divided by appointment, the type of movement of gases, performance and frequency of the furnace. In order to make a sure choice, you need to decide for at least three criteria. The dimensions of the stove depend on the available area, and its appearance from personal preferences. Therefore, the leading parameter is destination.

  • Heat and cooking . It is clear from the name that it serves as a heating of the room and is used for cooking. Equipped with a heat generating surface and a cooking panel. The brick stove can only be equipped with a cooking panel of cast iron.
  • Heating . Main appointment - room heating. In this case, heated rooms can be from one to three. The best option when the walls of the stove serve as interior partitions.
  • Varochny . Used exclusively for cooking. Have a compact size and cooking surface. Heat for heating the room such a stove will not be enough.
  • Multifunctional . These furnaces may have a certain purpose or apply immediately for several purposes. In addition to heating the premises and the presence of a cooking panel, it is possible to baking bread, drying linen and so on.

Types of brick stoves

Pros and cons of brick furnaces

Brick stoves have a mass of advantages:

  • Reliable heat accumulation.
  • Prolonged temperature saving.
  • When cooled, the furnace absorbs the pairs, which was released when he was heated.
  • Brick ovens economical.
  • The furnace surface does not heat up much, which makes it safe.

As for minuses, they are. The stove with a large area of ​​the room will have to warm up long. The furnace itself takes a lot of space, and the disorder when the furnace device can cause improper functioning.

How to choose a brick for a furnace

For the manufacture of the furnace use ceramic, silicate or refractory brick. The last option is considered ideal, but in practice they are used for external masonry of the fireplace or firebox. From refractory, chamotte brick and refractory.

Choosing bricks

For the construction of the furnace you can not use hollow bricks.

Selection of sand and solutions

Put bricks per solution. It is preparing from clay. Please note that a red clay is suitable for red bricks, and a chamotte clay is needed for chamotte. You can prepare a solution of river sand with a grain fraction of 1-1.5 mm and clay with respect to 2.5: 1 with the addition of water to the desired consistency. The simplest option to buy a finished stove.

How to choose the right place to install the furnace

For safety and efficiency, the stove should be positioned correctly, especially if the design is installed in the finished building. At the same time take into account several rules:

  • Do not install the oven near the outer wall.
  • The installed stove in the center acts as an element of zoning.
  • You can install the oven in the wall between 2-3 rooms.
  • The location of the beams in the field of chimney is taken into account.

Preparation of necessary tools

Next, proceed to the preparation of the tools.

Tools for the furnace

Commit to:

  • Rule for leveling surfaces.
  • Hammer-Kirk for brick cutting.
  • Messel for trilating solution.
  • Chimmer for brick splitting.
  • Square for cleaning the channel from pollution.
  • Level to control the levels of rows.
  • Rod for marking.
  • Reference to control vertical surfaces.
  • Pliers, rasp, chisel, tanks, sieve and building corner.

Popular errors

Even before the start of the construction, the possible errors should exclude. They are often:

  • Laying the brick seam in the seam without binding.
  • The use of metal in the place of contact with fire.
  • Laying brick in a trumpet on the edge.
  • Lining without taking into account varying degrees of brick expansion.
  • Invalid wood isolation.
  • The incorrect location of the furnace on the foundation.

Errors

Calculation of basic parameters, masonry options and furnace

The brick stove is appropriate in a residential building, and in the country. It depends on its size and position. At the initial stage are determined with the sizes of the stove, then they select drawings with the type of its type.

Calculation of basic parameters

Calculations are made taking into account the room in which the furnace will be installed. It is worth considering that the heat transfer will be from all surfaces of the design. If there is no ready-made version of the scheme, it is compiled independently.

Flak

The size of the furnace depends on the scope of the bookmark, while it should not be more than 2/3 of the volume of the furnace. In addition, consider the size of the bricks used for masonry. The easiest way is to use ready-made tables.

Room Square 12 16 22. thirty 35. 40.
Portal volume 42. fifty 60. 80. one hundred 120.
Window width 500. 600. 700. 800. 900. 1000.
Height of the flue hole 450. 500. 560. 600. 700. 750.
Width of the back wall 300. 400. 450. 500. 600. 700.
The depth of the furnace 300. 320. 350. 370. 400. 450.
The height of the neck 120. 120. 120. 130. 130. 140.
Transient cross-section of chimney 140x140. 140x270. 140x270. 270x270. 270x270. 270x270.

Solnik

The height of the ashbar directly depends on what fuel will be applied. For minorial materials, such as coal or peat, the value is 1/3 of the height of the fuel. When using firewood or pallet height decreases to 1/5.

Chimney

The main feature of the wood furnace is that, in contrast to Gas, there is no need for a large thrust. For this reason, the chimney is more often rectangular. Please note that the cross section has not thought about the smoke area. There are special programs to calculate the size of the chimney. On average, with a furnace power of 10 kW, dimensions will be 200х100 mm.

Blueprints

In order not to make errors when laying the oven, it is necessary to use the scheme in mandatory. Without experience, it is not recommended to create a drawing. Violation of robes of masonry can entail serious problems.

Russian oven.

Russian stove has one drawback - mostly the upper air layer is heated. But despite this, she is still in demand. It can be both purely heating and with a cooking surface. In size can be large, medium and small. As an example, a small furnace scheme is shown.

Drawing of a Russian furnace

Stove- "Holland"

It is used more often to heat the room and, accordingly, does not have a hob. This allows 30% to increase heat transfer. Traditionally, the stove has two channels for winter and summer, which simplifies the process of extracts after a long idleness. A distinctive feature of this scheme is a strong thrust, so when the door, the door should not be opened.

Dutch furnace drawing

Normal rectangular

High heat transfer is distinguished, which is beneficial for the premises of a large area. In addition, it is suitable for any type of fuel. For convenience there is a system of lower warm-up.

Drawing of a brick oven

Furnace- "Swede"

As an example, a Scheme of Swede, which is not only functional, but also has a pretty design. In addition, after a good extract, it retains heat for two days, which is enough to heat the house with an area of ​​up to 40 square meters. There is a cooking surface, and an oven, and the heat design begins to give after 15 minutes after the extras.

Furnace drawing Swede

Furnace with fireplace

The furnace 4.5x3.5 brick is enough to the room with an area of ​​up to 25 square meters. The design is supplied with a cast-iron stove, open a fireplace with a tooth. The portal area is 630x560 mm when the pipe is 260x130 mm. Please note that the heat transfer coefficient is 9.5%, which requires a pipe structure of 8 meters. If the length is smaller, the portal area is reduced by 1.2 rows.

stove

Bread baking oven

You can call a universal version. The back wall can go to the next room and used for heating. The stove according to this scheme is able to heat the room with an area of ​​up to 30 square meters. A single unit panel is performed as a hob. The oven is made of sheet steel. The design is not only a lot of functional, but also attractive outwardly.

Bread Furnace Drawing

Foundation arrangement

Traditionally, the foundation is made with the foundation of the house, but they should not contact each other. In a monolithic house, the foundation is placed on the floor after waterproofing. With the wooden floor, the boards are cleaned the size of a future furnace. The foundation of the furnace is always somewhat larger than the stove itself.

Masonry options

The sequence of work will be different with different laying schemes, but the main steps are all the same. The first two rows form a subtopic part. At the level of the third row, the door is installed attended. The grate grille stops over the ashlast on chammed bricks.

With mortar and without

Even in the presence of experience, the layout is performed without a solution, to estimate the future design, accurately observing the order. This allows you to evaluate the correctness of the calculation of the chimney, on which the direction of thrust depends.

After that, the main masonry is performed. At the same time, the calibration devices are necessarily used in the amount of which should be enough for three rows. After that, they pull the rails from the bottom row, clean and stacked in the fourth and so on.

Laying foundation

Letter of brick

This option is distinguished by the method of erection. After laying 4 rows and the doors pondered, the rear wall lay out in the ¼ brick. In 18 centimeters from the left side, the wall is also swung in the ¼ brick. It was further built bricks on the edge. On the back side launch a brick inside the plate. The next brick is perpendicular to it. As a result, the wall is formed in the form of the letter G. It will be the basis for the installation of the oven.

The simplest brick oven do it yourself

For those who are for the first time for the construction of the furnace better use the easiest option. The size of such a furnace is not more than 0.5 square meters. It does not require the foundation - it is enough to put a solid board. It is waterproof. Next follows a layer of sand 12 cm. Next masonry is made. The first row is laid out on dry. The door is installed after the winding of the asbestos cord. The third row is laid out with chamoten brick. After the formation, it was confusedly installed the grille.

After that, the styling of bricks on the edge form chimney, while one brick is put on dry, as it is subsequently removed. Next continues the masonry and complete the chimney with a lung material.

on the desk

Furnace coach

The order is the process of applying for a sheet of paper of the location of each brick. Naturally, for different options, the order of 3.5x3.5 or 2x4 bricks the order will be different. In the absence of experience, you can use ready-made schemes.

With chimney

This is a traditional option that is used until the heating of the room. All combustion products are removed through the pipe to the street, which makes them absolutely safe. From the device of the structure of the chimney, the force of thrust and its effectiveness depends.

Furnace coach

Without chimney

If we talk specifically about brick furnaces, then without chimney, the design is used exclusively on the street for cooking, since hazardous substances are distinguished during the combustion. In some cases, the chimney is used.

Furnace coach without chimney

Brick oven care rules

The duration of operation depends on how correctly care for the stove. Only dry materials that do not form condensates are used for the furnace. Simple paper will fit as ignition. Immediately after the extractor, the view is overlapped, it will exclude the yield of heat through the chimney.

When using briquettes and coal, it is necessary to regularly purify the furnace with the help of brushes and scrapers from Nagara. After a long simple remote, air stoppers can be used to be placed closer to the vertical gas duct.

Metal furnace

Metal furnaces are more often used to heat non-residential premises, such as garages, greenhouses, working room. Metal sheets, barrels, pipes, and so on. In all cases, the sequence of execution is the same. The differences concern only the preparation of the furnace case.

Metal furnace

Advantages and disadvantages

Metal ovens have several advantages compared to bricks. First of all, it is simplicity of manufacturing and availability of necessary materials. The same applies to the time spent on the manufacture of the furnace.

The metal stove takes a minimum of space, quickly heats up, does not require the structure of the foundation for it. It is worth noting that its body is very heated during the furnace.

Selection of material and tools

The best option is the choice of a round hull, such as a gas cylinder. It is also suitable for a pipe with a wall thickness of 5 mm and a diameter of 300 mm.

It will also be necessary:

  • Metal sheet 3 mm thick.
  • Periodic profile valve with a diameter of 10-12 mm.
  • Tube with a length of 0.6-0.7 meters.
  • Trimming pipes for chimney and nozzles.
  • Corners, shelllers for legs.

Metal furnace drawing

Drawings and calculations

It is not possible to choose a certain size of the furnace, as it directly depends on the material used. For a room of 12-18 square meters, such a furnace is sufficient for heating.

The drawing depends on the source material (tube or cylinder). If enough experience, the drawing is drawn independently. For the beginner it is better to take a ready-made option.

Production options

The sequence of work depends on the selected materials and features of the structure.

Burzhuyka oven

Bourgeisters make more often from gas cylinders. First, the valve opens to drain the condensate as much as possible. Fill the ball with water to the top. With the help of the grinder, the top of the factory seam is cut. Immediately cuts the window under the door. The second balloon is cut and carries out for the fifth.

Next cutting grilles and reinforced with reinforcement. After that, the roller from the metal bands and legs is mounted. The door should be framed asbestos, the basalt insulation is laid inside.

Balcony Furnace Drawing

The vertical case makes a hole in which the pipe is placed at an angle of 30-40 degrees. The seams are hermetically boiled after that the doors of the furnace and the ashtelter are installed.

Do not change the diagram or increase the size of the heat exchange part, as this will lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of heating.

Metal calculated

From the above described in the way the furnace lining is carried out. To do this, from the inside the design is placed with refractory bricks. Accordingly, at the design stage, it is necessary to make a larger furnace with lining.

With a sparking

Often, when using fuel of different quality, sparks can fly along with hot air through the chimney. It is dangerous firewesters. To delete it, the sparks are applied. These are special parts with high thermal conductivity, after contact with which sparks give warmly and no longer prevail. Accordingly, structures in the upper part of the chimney are mounted.

Sparkovitel

Outdoor oven

Fuel for furnaces Sometimes getting problematic, which makes the stoves on the development of machine oil. This is a petroleum products saturated with particles of metal, soot, salts, resin and connections. Exhaust is burning almost 85%.

Varieties

Furnaces on the workplace can be with a single-stage or drip fuel supply. Made from cylinders or pipes. Also possible designs made of metal sheets. Water contour structures are used to heat water and heating.

Where used

During the combustion, the spent machine oil highlights not a very pleasant smell that in itself is not useful for health. Therefore, in residential premises, it is rarely used or requires high-quality removal of combustion products. These ovens are most in demand in roads, garages, sheds, and so on.

Oven on working out

Device stove

In order for oil to burn, it should be heated to the boiling point and then set fire to the pairs. Based on this, the oil container is mandatory, the afterburning chamber and chimney. In order for the pairs evenly roasted, the download chamber and the firebox should be made approximately equal size.

Principle of operation

In the tanks poured through 1/2 -2/3 volume after some time evaporation ignited with a rachin or veto. After that, the hole through which the oil poured the oil should be closed and not to open until the extension is completely burndown. Normally, in the process of combustion, the flame must have a bluish shade, which indicates the temperature of more than 1000 degrees. Orange color speaks of a temperature of 900 degrees, which is not enough.

Calculations and measurements

Given the high temperature of the burning, the materials of 6 mm thick should be taken. All designs should be collapsible. The average weight without fuel is 30 kg. The sizes of the furnace on average 75x50x35x cm, the chambers with a height of 10-15 cm with a width of 30-40 cm. The volume is 10-30 liters. The diameter of the connecting pipe is 10 cm at a length of 40 cm. For such a pipe, 150-160 holes need to be made.

Furnace drawing on work

Materials

For the manufacture, it will take a steel sheet with a thickness of 4-6 mm, a Bulgarian with metal cutting discs, drills, welding machine, leaf-brewing machine, studs and thread bolts.

Production options

Production features depend on the selected materials. But in general, the principle of work is always the same.

Gas cylinder oven

The balloon is used by the volume of 50 liters, also need a sheet of metal with a thickness of 4 mm, steel pipe, thread screws, clamps, loops, hose for testing and an additional cylinder for fuel tank.

Air is descended from the balloon, two holes of the square shape are cut. From the sheet they made the bottom of the furnace, and from the pipe burner with holes. Pallet for workshop is made from the brake disc and steel sheet. Next, the pallet is installed for fuel and the valve on it.

Drawing from cylinder

Water contour furnace

In this case, the easiest option is also used, but the tank is winding the pipe. At the bottom, the flow of cold water is carried out, as a result of the movement on the helix from the heat of the tank, it heats up and on top of hot water.

A more complex option when the stove is immersed in the second case, inside which water circulates. As a rule, it is used to supply water into heating radiators.

Drawing with water contour

Furnace with drip fuel

It is considered more secure than models with simultaneous fuel supply. In this case, a separate fuel tank is organized, from which drip raw materials are supplied to the heating chamber. The feed intensity is regulated by the valve.

Drawing with drip feed

Overbilling oven

Also used a balloon for 50 liters. Air supply is carried out by a fan from the machine, which increases the thrust and increases the degree of heat transfer.

drawing with supervision

Pipe oven

For the manufacture of this design, iron or steel pipes are used. The dimensions of the furnace are determined based on the application and destination. It is a cut of a pipe of 1-1.5 meters, where the ashpan is located at the bottom of it. The chimney pipe is traditionally welding from above.

Where applies

In most cases, the pipes from pipes are used in parilots, sheds, mines of small area, as well as in cabins for heating in winter. Horizontal models are perfectly suitable for baths, as they allow you to install a tank with water for heating. Can combine the design under the barbecue and barbecue. Vertical are more often used to heat the seafood and cooking.

Advantages and disadvantages

Pipe furnaces are an economical option for heating the room and creating a hob in a small house. The design due to the form gives the optimal amount of heat at a small fuel consumption. But it's not enough for a large area of ​​such a furnace.

Pipe oven

Long burning furnace

Under the furnace, it is necessary to fill the formwork with a depth of 15-30 cm and 20-30 cm more furnaces. Be sure to use the reinforcement bunch. The legs of the furnace are welded to it so that their upper edge is 15 cm above the formwork. After the composition is frozen, the stove assembled according to the scheme.

Choosing materials and tools

The pipe for the furnace should be a diameter of 0.4-0.6 meters with a wall thickness of up to 10 mm. Thin pipes can be deformed, and thick hard to process. Also need a bulgarian, welding machine, fittings, furnaces and loops, cement, steel wire, boards to formwork.

Schemes and collection options

Furnaces according to options for collecting can be vertical and horizontal. The first takes up more space, the firewood burns faster, which means the heat will be more. Horizontal is better kept warm at low fuel consumption. In the metal tube, the holes for the ashtar and the furnace are performed, and the chimney is welded at the top.

The drawing is developed on the basis of the selected model and materials. For the newbie it is better to use the finished scheme.

Pipe furnace scheme

Furnace Lena

This Russian stove with a layer is multifunctional and universal. It heats the house, allows you to prepare food and creates a comfortable place to sleep and rest. Benefits of the Furnace of Lena:

  • High efficiency.
  • High-quality heating around the house.
  • Multifunctionality.
  • Fire safety.
  • Long service life for more than 30 years.

Features of the furnace

For a furnace with a laying, certain dimensions are highlighted:

  • Width from 1.5 meters.
  • Length from 2 meters.
  • Height of the position of the hearth from 45 centimeters.

Furnace Lena

Foundation arrangement

The foundation for such a stove is laying out of cast bricks, stones, but the most important thing is not to be combined with the foundations of the house. That is, both foundations are erected separately. Today, concrete, reinforced concrete and brick structures of the foundation under the stove are popular.

Masonry scheme

For laying a furnace with a layer, a red brick, chamotte, sheet steel, corners and chammed clay are used. After the manufacture of the foundation is performed by the century. Next, the scheme is wenst on the selected design. Be sure to make a friend and layout on dry. Schemes are used ready if there is no experience in the bary.

Furnace coach

Furnace-fireplace do it yourself

For a cottage house, it is not necessary to equip a full-fledged stove of large sizes that require considerable costs. In order to prepare food in the summer and sometimes it is enough to pump the house in the winter of a fire fireplace.

Varieties

The furnace-fireplace can have different sizes, characterized by the size of the cooking surface, has or does not have a laying and so on. The choice of functions depends on the available area and the wishes of the owner. In addition, fire fire furnaces can be an open type and closed when the flame is burned with the doors with glass.

Foreign fireplace

Advantages and disadvantages

The pluses of the design are small sizes, simplicity of installation, the ability to perform in original design, safety, practicality. It should also be noted the cost-effectiveness, the possibility of adjusting the heat transfer, simplicity of purification.

If the furnace is not used for a long time, when heated, an unpleasant smell appears associated with the accumulation of dust. In addition, such a stove does not hold heat for a long time.

Device

The furnace-fireplace has a firebox and a cooking stove designed for cooking. The furnace is often equipped with cast-iron doors with glass resistant to heating. Required the foundation of brick or concrete. In the event that the foundation for the furnace is erected simultaneously with the foundation for the house, they must be divided. The fireplace is necessarily a chimney, which should be taken into account in the presence of rafters and roof overlaps.

Blueprints

For self-assembly, you should choose in advance the drawing already proven by specialists. Without experience, do it is unlikely to succeed. Ideally advise with the Peak and together with him to choose the optimal dimensions and drawings.

Furnace drawing fireplace

Preparation of foundation

For a cottage house, a cheap option of a boob foundation is suitable. To do this, make a boiler for 5-10 centimeters more than the future oven. The formwork is erected, bituminous waterproofing is applied. Dog stone and crushed stone with a shallow fraction are placed on the bottom of the pit. The layer is poured with a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3 consistency of sour cream. After that, they again lay the layer of stone and rubble with the next fill with sandy cement mortar. The latter layer aligns cement mortar.

Facial facilities

Put the brick for the fireplace furnace on the heat-resistant solution from sand and clay. You can buy a ready-made composition in stores. For a first row formed under the furnace, a brick is suitable and with defects. On the second row installed the doors pissed. Thirdly fasten the doors with wire. The fourth row closes attended.

The fireplace door of the furnaces on the pins are installed on the fifth row, in the next row, the doors of the furnace firebox are mounted. And then up to 11 rows. A cooking surface is stacked on 11 rows and 12 bricks are laid. The arch is beginning to form with 16 rows. In 19 row, grooves for valves are created, and the chimney begin to put with 22 rows.

Foreign fireplace order

Stove with mangalom

For a summer house or private house, an ideal version will be a furnace-brass or barbecue. The process of erecting the stokers is quite simple, but the technology will still have to observe.

Barbecue Furnace Features

To begin with, prepare a furnace project, decide on the location and sizes. In most cases, equip the sink, but it can be done without sink. The furnace should not touch the walls of any buildings, as the brick will warm up much.

Stove Mangal

How to equip the foundation

Given that the furnace has small sizes sufficient foundation 20 cm. Optimally use the M100 concrete concrete. The site is placed under the foundation, it is leveled to a depth of up to 35 sublime, the sand-gravel mixture is covered inside. The formwork is further built, the reinforcement of rods is stacked and concrete is poured. Next, it is possible to continue working in 3-4 days.

Materials for the furnace

For the construction of the furnace, a brick is full and brick chammatory in equal amounts. In addition, we need concrete, formwork boards, fittings for foundation, edged board, iron pipe, waterproofing, mixers and rubber hoses.

Schemes

The design scheme depends on the selected furnace option.

With closed stove

The cooking surface has side walls, the grill is closed with cast-iron doors with tempered glass. Differs high heat transfer.

drawing with a closed plate

With open slab

It differs only in the absence of a side wall near the hob. It is almost more convenient, especially considering that the cooking panel can be approached from both sides, but the heat transfer is somewhat lower.

Drawing with open slab

With oven stove

Also has a cooking surface plus oven. Accordingly, it is characterized by larger sizes, which requires greater base depth.

Drawing with oven plate

With stove

An interesting option when combining the furnace in its traditional understanding with the fireplace. In this case, you can organize a stove on the street with contact with one wall with a room, which will warm it up.

Oven for Kazan

The furnaces under the Kazan are made as a rule of metal. There may be simple, in which you can only prepare in the Casane, or multifunctional, when, besides the cauldron, you can put a barbecue grid or smoking. In addition, stationary models and portable are highlighted.

Design features

A simple oven under Kazan is presented in the form of a pipe with an embroidered upper edge. There are two holes in the cylinder. At an altitude of 10 cm from the top for the chimney and at the same distance from the bottom of the furnace. Inside the grade grille is installed. For convenience, the mesh bottom can be used to eliminate the mixing of fresh firewood and ash.

Oven for Kazan

Production options

Depending on which the material is made of the furnace, several types of design stands out.

Gas cylinder oven

From the cylinders make portable furnaces under Kazan. They can be installed anywhere. For their manufacture, it will take a balloon, fittings, grate, door loops, edged discs, grinding circles, drills, welding machine and electrodes.

The balloon opens, the remains of the gas are descended, markup is performed at an altitude of 60-70 centimeters from the bottom and cut off with a grinder. For convenience, triangular cuts are made on the top. They will provide stable thrust and exclude vacuum formation.

On the side surface, two windows are cut out, on one cut wedge installed with the help of loops. Both cavities are separated by a grate grid.

Face for a cauldron

From brick

This is the most complex embodiment of the furnace under Kazan. For the design you should take a refractory brick. The model is stationary and often performs the interior decoration.

When creating a drawing, it is determined with the sizes of the furnace, the location is distinguished under the top plate, and the chimney hole is stiffed. It is important to use a circular masonry under the cast-iron slab otherwise the load from the cauldron will fall solely on the metal.

Brick oven for cauldron

From car discs

This is one of the simplest options. This will require two old car discs. They are installed on each other so that the cavity is formed between them. According to the contact of the seam, it is carefully coarsened.

In the bottom disk, the side of the furnace copies on the side. Its size should be equal to one Polenu, no longer make sense to do. If desired, legs and handles are welded.

Oven for cauldron from car drives

Metal pipe

The whole process can be divided into three stages:

  • Preparation of the pipe of the desired diameter, electrodes for cooking specific metal.
  • Creating a drawing with the layout of the height of the arrangement of the handles, legs, holes.
  • Assembling the furnace according to the drawing. Next, the primary protood is performed and the elimination of possible flaws.

In the quality of the material, a thick-walled pipe is used, for chimney, you can take the pipe thinner, we also need metal corners and a grate grille. From the tools you will need Bulgarian, drill, drills, welding machine, hammer, level and protective equipment.

Metal tube furnace

Gas oven

Gas furnaces today enjoy the greatest demand, especially in residential buildings and in the baths. In its intended purpose, they are divided into heating, used only for heating rooms, heating, to create hot water supply, domestic, intended for baking, cooking, premises heating. The selection depends on the application area.

For and against a gas furnace

Let's start with the use of the gas stove beneficial in economically. In addition, raw materials have a high efficiency. Use such a furnace is convenient and safe. Gas can be supplied from the central line or a cylinder can be used. Pros stoves:

  • Quality and fast heating.
  • Small sizes of the furnace.
  • Metal furnace is easy to move to the desired location.
  • Independence from the power supply network.

But there are also disadvantages. The use of gas for heating is governed by the standards. In order to use the gas furnace, we need concluding and agreements. The project for a private house with a furnace on Gas costs a lot of money. Well, most importantly - the use of gas requires compliance with safety.

gas oven

Device

The main differences from the wood furnace in the fact that gas is used for ignition. For this reason, instead of the window, a small hole for the burner is made through the firewood.

There is also a supervised gas burner in the housing. The feed is carried out through the hoses. From above can be like an outdoor pallet with stones and a closed heater.

When servicing a gas furnace, a thermostat must be installed, which should be triggered if the burner was found, resulting in gas overlap.

Calculations

The size of the furnace is directly dependent on the destination. For heating room with a water boiler and steam heating, a baking oven is used. For the bath, a small furnace is enough, but it is installed in the wall so that the furnace is on the one hand, and the boiler with water on the other. For the country house, it is used more often oven with a hob. In this case, the dimensions are determined by the area of ​​the room and the material used (brick, metal, stone).

Drawing of a gas stove

Everything you need for oven

For the construction of a furnace on Gas should be used chamotte brick, metal and stone. The last option is especially beneficial due to the rapid heating of the material. We also need a grille, corners, doors, all the necessary tools, mixtures.

As for the gas burner, it can be two types:

  • The atmospheric simplest, does not require control, since the power of the fire is maintained by air.
  • The inflatable burner forcibly cattures the air into the chamber and due to this supports burning.

If it is possible to connect to a centralized network, a natural year is used. Otherwise, a cylinder with liquefied gas is used.

Location stove

The position of the gas stove in the room also depends on its purpose. There are compact models from a metal pipe or a cylinder. They can be transferred to the right place. Brick furnaces stationary and more often used in baths and private houses. As a rule, such a furnace is placed in the kitchen or in a non-residential room. From it there is a layout of pipes throughout the house for heating. A cooking surface is organized on the furnace.

Stove on gas.

Assembly

When assembling the furnace should pay attention to the following aspects:

  • The distance from the wall of the furnace to the wall of the house should be more than 50 centimeters.
  • Nearby surfaces must be from non-combustible materials.
  • The base of the boiler should perform 100 mm from the edge.
  • The height of the burner must be 470-550 mm. If with the overlay, then up to 680 mm.
  • All channels must be hermetic.

Water stove

This design has a lot of advantages, it not only heats the room, but also ensures water heating for both domestic needs and for heating the room.

Principle of operation

As a rule, boiler steel or cast iron is used. Inside the design is a heat exchanger from sheet metal or pipes. When heating the steam passes through the channels, heats the water, transmitting energy to it.

Such furnaces are distinguished by high productivity, affordable installation cost, the benefit of using a different type of fuel and independence from the mains.

oven and heating

Production features

For the manufacture, it will take a heat exchanger or register, a boiler and a serpent. We also need metal sheets and pipes. The most practical use of the heat exchanger in the form of sheet metal. In this case, the sheet should be a thickness of 0.5 centimeter. The area depends on the area of ​​the room.

Masonry technology

Two masonry options are used. In the first case, a ready-made furnace is used in which the heat exchanger is built. But in this case, it is necessary to consider that the distance between the stove and the heat exchanger should be at least 4 centimeters, otherwise the water will boil, which will cause the destruction of the furnace. The second option is the construction of a new furnace.

In both cases, the masonry is performed by an experimental stove, since the violation can cause not only the destruction of the furnace, but also a threat to life.

Water stove masonry

Recommendations for the arrangement of the furnace

Water furnace can only be operated in the presence of a person. It is especially important to control the smoke channels and the position of the valves. It is recommended to use this design in winter when it is necessary to heating the room. In the event that a homemade variant is used, you should install a pumping station for injection of fluid. Also relevant will be the sensor to control the pressure.

Stone oven

Stone furnaces are traditional and carry not only a practical role, but also decorative. You can install them both in residential buildings and in the baths or in the country. The main plus is a quick heating, compared with brick furnaces, and a uniform distribution of heat.

Choosing materials and tools

To build a furnace, choose breeds resistant to temperatures, such as granite or sandstone. By using the stone of different form, you can achieve interesting design. It is also popular with a brown stone, limestone, can be used as a scenery.

A novelty is talco chloride. It is easily processed, heats up 10 times faster than bricks and durable.

Stone oven

Preparation of foundation

Drive under a stone furnace should be deep to half a meter. The crushed stone falls back on his bottom. Next, the formwork is installed and the concrete mixture is poured. After drying the foundation, waterproofing is stacked.

Masonry Rules

After preparing the foundation, brickwork begins. The first row is flung out of fire-resistant bricks without a solution. In certain ranks, the doors are installed for the furnace and the ash bar, the place is organized under the tanks and so on. Do not forget to make gaps for dampers.

As in any other cases, it is better to make masonry on dry and only then apply a solution. After completion of the masonry, the inner walls are placed, and the chimney organizes insulation.

Features of furnaces depending on their placement

The diversity of furnaces significantly facilitates the choice of a suitable design for certain purposes. Therefore, when choosing an oven should first take into account the area of ​​its installation.

Oven for cottage

For a cottage house, it is suitable as a brick stove, if the place and metal from the pipe or cylinder allows. As a rule, houses have a small area and are quickly heated. Especially profitable to use structures with heating water and a cooking surface.

Oven for cottage

Oven for home

For the house you need a solid oven on the foundation. For several rooms, the ideal option will be a large oven placed between the rooms so that its walls are located in different rooms. The kitchen is equipped with a cooking surface and an oven.

Oven for home

Oven for garage

In the garage, the cooking surface is not needed, so bourgearies and other simple variations of furnaces are used, the main purpose of which is heating the room. The presence of chimney is mandatory.

Oven for garage

Bath furnace

For the cottage, special designs are used with the possibility of water heating, such as horizontal furnaces from the pipe. But the perfect version will be a brick stove and stone.

Bath furnace

Oven for gazebo

For arbors a fairly open brick oven without chimney. In nature, an excellent option will be a horizontal oven with a barbecue or smokehouse from above. Ideally, the oven should have a small weight so that for the wintering time it was possible to transfer it to the barn.

Oven for gazebo

Street oven.

Like a furnace for a gazebo, may not have a chimney. It is suitable as simple brick structures and metal. It is additionally equipped with a brazier, barbecue and smoking. As heating, such furnaces are not used.

Stove for the street

How to increase the kpd furnace with your own hands

To increase the efficiency, various methods are used. Consider the most effective of them:

  • Creation of high-quality smoke for the selection of heat from combustion products.
  • Creation of parolic combustion of wood, which allows you to increase the efficiency by 5-8%.
  • Ensuring natural convection, which will improve by blowing the furnace.
  • Opening a metal furnace brick.
  • Creating an air heat exchanger to increase heat transfer.
  • Increase the duration of the chimney.

Important tips regardless of the type of stove

In order for any furnace to serve as long as possible, the basic rules should be followed:

  • Furnaces erected with solutions can dry natural or enforced method. With a natural furnace dries evenly, but takes a lot of time. With a compulsory oven, it hits 6-7 times a day until a complete burden. Drying is carried out until condensate is formed on the surfaces.
  • The furnace, which is token daily, needs a protostka once a day.
  • If the furnace was idle, it is molded with 2-3 fireboxs until it warm up, but necessarily small fireboxes.
  • Especially neatly the furnaces are oppressed after the winter break, as condensate accumulates in them.
  • Once the quarter is carried out cleaning, the bowl is mechanical without the use of folk tips, which may be dangerous.
  • Metal stoves are regularly checked for tightness and are repaired on time.
  • Brick ovens and stone are also checked for integrity and repaired if necessary.

Drawings ovens for self-laying

To collect the furnace can not only an experienced cook, but also a beginner. To do this, it is enough to correctly perform all the steps of the assembly and launch of the structure. It is also important to have all the necessary tools and materials. But if an experienced cook can make a friend and choose a diagram, then it is better to choose from the finished options, taking into account the area of ​​the room and the destination of the furnace.

Drawings 📝 and coils for laying furnaces. ☝ Step-by-step instructions 📕 for beginners. ✅ Features and nuances. ☛ Detailed photos and video.

Construction of a wood-burning furnace

After the type of device is selected, materials are prepared and selected a suitable place, you can start work.

The process of creating a wood stove is conventionally divided into three stages:

  1. Construction of the foundation.
  2. Construction of the furnace itself.
  3. Creating a chimney design.

All work should be performed clearly by technology. During operation, such a device is heated and exposed to high loads. Even a small mistake in the future can turn into big challenges. If doubts arise, it is better to consult with an experienced cook.

Device of a separate foundation

The base for the furnace should not be connected with a tape or bar foundation at home. The device is heavy, it will stronger to heal the base than walls and roofs. Therefore, at the design stage you need to take into account this moment.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

When creating a separate foundation for a brick oven, it is important to correctly make a subtype, be sure to perform reinforcement, alignment and glue waterproofing

If the house is already built, and the furnace is still needed, you will have to open the floor, get to the soil and fill the separate base. An exception is a monolithic foundation, its carrying capacity will withstand such an additional load without noticeable deformations.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

As a formwork, a conventional sheet rubber strengthened by wooden backups is used, but a polyethylene film can be used instead.

First digging the same shape, as the base of the furnace, but slightly larger, about 20 cm for each side, and a depth of about half a meter.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Concrete solution for the foundation knead the recipe in a separate container so that it acquires the necessary density and homogeneous structure

After that, the following operations perform:

  1. The ground at the bottom is thoroughly align and trambed.
  2. They fall asleep on the bottom of the sand layer, it will also be trambed and moisturized, the recommended thickness of the sandy pillow is about 90 mm.
  3. Located on the walls of the rubberoid sheets, it is a waterproofing layer.
  4. If necessary, the runneroid is strengthened with boards and bricks that perform the role of formwork.
  5. On the sand fall asleep and trambed a layer of crushed stone.
  6. Metal bar make a reinforcing grid, use wire for mating.
  7. A third of the remaining height is poured a solution consisting of cement with the addition of sand and rubble in proportion 2: 1: 2.
  8. Pour the next cement-sand layer (3: 1), leaving about five centimeters to the top.
  9. After that, put another layer of the same mixture to the top.
  10. The tie lines the rule.

Now you need to wait about four weeks so that fresh foundation is well frozen.

It is recommended to reduce the surface of the base with water daily and cover the film with a layer so that the process passed uniformly.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

As reinforcing elements, the standard steel rod is used, the mating is performed using a soft wire, observing the right step

After that, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the base is covered with two or three layers of rubberoid, which are glued with bitumen mastic. Waterproofing will protect the housing of the stove from contact with moisture from the soil. The bottom layer of the foundation, if desired, can be made from cement and gravel, the recommended proportion is one to three.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

For the last foundation layer, the reinforcement is most often performed separately, the grid knit from the same rod as for the foundation

If the rubberoid was not at hand, ordinary boards are suitable for the role of formwork, but they need to be seen with a plastic film to protect against water. It is best to build a foundation for the oven to the flooring level or even a little higher. It is so easier to fulfill finishing work.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The upper part of the foundation is thoroughly aligned with the rule and check the level. Better if it is to be closed with flooring plane

A part that rises above the floor is usually done a little more, for this formwork expand. It will not hurt to perform a separate reinforcement of the upper layer - the grid is suitable in increasing about 75 mm.

The order of masonry of the furnace

To understand how to modify a simple stove with a stove, first perform the so-called dry masonry, i.e. Lay bricks with rows, according to a planned scheme, but without a solution. Instead, it uses pieces of plywood, rails or skidding suitable size. The space between the individual rows should be the same.

If the brick is the right, the dry masonry is disassembled, after which the masonry solution is prepared and perform work with it. The easiest way to use the clay powder from the store. It needs to be simply properly divorced according to the instructions and add sand.

With clay, everything is a little more difficult. To begin with, it must be soaked with water for about a day. After that, the resulting mixture of water and clay add sand with small portions and knead the composition with hands to a homogeneous state. The amount of sand depends on how much fat clay is used.

As a result, the mixture obtained will become sufficiently thick, so as not to drain from the shovel, but to crawl off it. In addition, the composition should not stick to the metallic tool. If the resulting mixture corresponds to these characteristics, you can start the masonry. Here is an example of a scheme for a small combined type oven.

First apply marking on the ruberoid glued to the base.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • The first row is always performed only from the whole brick. First, they make markup on the runner, install the cord. The finished row is checked by the level, it will be the point of reference to align the rest of the masonry
  • The first two rows are made solid, with the vertical joints between the whole bricks in the neighboring ranks should not be coincided.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Small cavities for pondered and smoke channels are needed to provide normal traction, as well as regular chimney maintenance
  • The following two rows are performed with lumens for pondered and holes for cleaning the chimney. The openings are closed with metal doors.
  • Doors before installing should be prepared: drill in the corners of the hole, insert pieces of wires in them and wrap the frame asbestos cord. Slices of wire are laid into a solution between bricks.
  • The fourth row is performed from chamotte brick, because the firebox is already beginning here. A part of the height of the brick is chosen, they put a grate grid over the opening.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • The grate grid separates from the spacecase space, thought that it was necessary to create sufficient thrust in the chimney channel
  • The fifth row is performed in the same way as the fourth. From the sixth to the eighth masonry, they continue to repeat, but leave the lumen for the door of the furnace chamber.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • The top of the wall between the furnace and chimney must be slightly rounded, gently settling the edge of the top layer of bricks. Such a measure will improve traction and warn the education of twists
  • A row above the door of the furnace will become the base for the stove. Part of the brick around the perimeter is removed, they are paved with an asbestos cord and on top put a cast-iron cooking surface.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The red line denotes the places where it is necessary to choose about one and a half centimeters to get the stove designed for cooking. Asbestos cord should be pre-impregnated with masonry solution

If everything is done correctly, the stove and the upper side of the ninth row of bricks will be on the same level.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Side walls serve as an additional fortification for a brick design, and the visor is necessary to capture fat and pairs from food
  • Next continue to lay out the side walls and chimney channel. It will take another six or seven rows. The following row should also include a visor hanging over the stove. To strengthen it, use steel corner.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • The height of the partition between the extreme left and central channel is six bricks, lumen in three bricks needed for normal smoke circulation
  • It remains to lay out the chimney, its height is nine bricks. In this example, on the sixth row of nine, they stopped laying out the partition between the left and middle channel. Thus, the clearance was created for the free movement of smoke.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Next, two channels are covered with solid masonry, and a smoking tube is output strictly upwards. It should rise above the roof of 0.5-1.5 m, the location of the passage through overlaps is carefully insulated
  • Now we need a solid laying over the left and central channels.
  • In the right smoke channel, in front of the last bricks insert the Sewber and leave the lumen for the chimney pipe.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Such a relatively small furnace of a simple design will be appropriate in a small house or in the country. It will provide the necessary heating and the possibility of cooking

It remains only to equip the chimney and perform facing work if they are needed.

16

Detailed furnace layout 3x3.5 bricks for 9 thousand rubles. 1 part. (Kitchen stove with heating shield)

Detailed furnace laying 3 5x3 5 bricks for 10 tons (two-skate rude with a lining of the fuel ...

Order of the T-shaped heating furnace

Order of the T-shaped heating furnace. The shape of the oven allows you to compactly place the heating device, while getting good heat transfer. The furnace is heated all, from the second row. It is perfect for the premises, where the layout does not allow the use of square furnaces. The heating flap is embedded in the partition, only a small part of the furnace performs. The design of the furnace is as simple as possible, even not a prepared person will be able to make it with their own hands, the main thing is strictly adhered to the drawing.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The heated area is approximately 50 square meters, depending on the insulation and material of the walls of the house.

Optionally, you can increase the power, liner fireboxes with refractory brick and add the bread chamber as in the photo below.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Brick furnaces for home drawings with coaches

How to fold the heating furnace with your own hands a step-by-step explanation of the video

On the example of a simple masonry, the master tells and shows how to fold the heating oven for all the rules: with confusion, asolnic, doors, and so on. The furnace is placed by standard red brick 7 * 12 cm, without a mixture (since this is an example), but with a demonstration of work.

Order of a Russian furnace

The Russian oven is the heart of the house, and heats up, and feed and go to sleep. That is why this type of furnace is one of the most popular. In this project, I tried to make a simple and understandable order, without difficulties and architectural frills. If you wish, you can add a hob, zoom in the sizes of the laying, and change the appearance. I hope this video will help you make you a Russian oven with your own hands. You will need about 1,100 pieces of bricks without taking into account the pipe.

Attention!!! If the pipe is planned to make a sandwich, it can be left as it is, in the center. If the pipe is brick, it must be shifted to the left or right edge, otherwise arched floors will not stand the weight of the pipe.

This type of furnace is classic and heated only from the submission, the Russian oven tuber, in this respect is much more effective, since it is completely heated.

Oven under Kazan.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The oven with a cauldron of bricks with your own hands.

Street oven in the country or soda plot, the dream of any dacket. Prepare a pilaf or fry kebabs on coals, of course, it is possible on a simple fire, but it is better to make a barbecue with your own hands. Before you, the cooler of the simplest furnace under Kazan. To fulfill it will be able to almost anyone, there would be a desire.

To work, you will need about 200 pieces of red bricks, a grate grid of 200 per 300 mm or a similar, 250 melting door, 250 mm, the door pissed 250 to 130 mm, chamoten brick is difficult, since the firebox is laid out around, but something about 120 pieces, and the actual stove itself under Kazan with dimensions of 710 by 710 mm.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The Russian oven (brazovaya) is a unique building of our ancestors, which not only warms, but also feeds, treats, and also ventilates the room. In multivarrences in the details of the form, its main components remain unchanged. In the article, we will look at the design of the Russian oven and its ordering laying.

Even before the introduction of the modern measurement system, the traditional sizes of the Russian oven were calculated in Arches. 1 Arshin is approximately 71 cm. In the width, the furnace had 2 ARSHIN, in length - 3, and the height of the main body of the furnace on the base of the oven before the burdock was 2.5 ARSHIN.

Russian (oven) furnace

In the furnace you can allocate three main components:

  1. Foundation.
  2. Case.
  3. Chimney.

Foundation

Our ancestors were used for the foundation of the edge of a boot stone or a reddown brick. Without leaving far from the traditions of the past, consider the option of a boot concrete foundation under the furnace case.

The depth of the foundation for the furnace depends on the properties of the soils, whether the building is heated in the cold period of time, what is the level of groundwater. In the case of a non-permanent building of the building, the depth of the base of the foundation is provided below the depth of the fruit of the soil at the coldest time.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

  • 1- sole of the foundation;
  • 2- bay laying;
  • 3- depth of bookmarks;
  • 4- waterproofing;
  • 5- floor level;
  • 6- Array of the furnace

Boot concrete consists of a concrete mix and boob stone. For the foundation, it is enough to use the M200 concrete mixture. The M200 concrete mix is ​​obtained by the following composition:

  • Cement M400 - 1 part;
  • sand - 2 parts;
  • Gravel or rubble fraction less than 3 cm - 4 parts.

For the manufacture of concrete sand is taken with a minimum amount of organic, clay, dusty, mica impurities that significantly reduce the strength and frost-resistant properties of concrete.

Water poured into a dry mixture of cement, sand and gravel gradually, with constant mixing of the ingredients before reaching the necessary mobility of the mixture. In this case, the volume of water is approximately equal to the volume of the cement taken.

The foundation for the furnace can be constructed by both a formwork and a non-absorptic way with dense unsinking soils and the depth of the base of the foundation less than 1.25 m. In the case of a non-blank device, the size of the pit must match the size of the foundation. Under the sole of the foundation, it is necessary to lay a layer of the rambered rubble with a thickness of at least 10 cm.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • The boot concrete masonry is the process of inserting a butte stone in a layer of laid concrete layer 20 cm high. The brownstone must be less than 30 cm, it is immersed in a layer of concrete to a depth of more than 1/2 of its height. The gap between the laid stones, as well as between the stone and the formwork, is 4-6 cm.
  • When the bout layer is fully laid, the next layer of concrete is stimulated and the stone of the stone is repeated.
  • To achieve the full quality of concrete work, the breaks in the process of the foundation device are allowed only when the gaps between the stones are filled with the concrete of the last layer. In dry, windy or hot weather during breaks in work more than a day to prevent rapid drying, the concrete surface is covered by any material (you can be wrapped with water 3-4 times a day. Before resuming the operation, the surface of the last layer is purified by contamination and wetted with water.
  • Bridgestone can be replaced by red brick chips or pieces of concrete, a brick crushed stone can be a filler of the same concrete mix. Stones, brick wreckages Before immersing them in a concrete mixture, should be carefully cleaned of contamination. In the dry and frying weather in the case of using the broken brick, the fragments are soaked in water before laying.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The timing of the typing concrete strength depend on its temperature. At a temperature of 10 ° C in the first day, it will take about 10% of its complete strength, for 7 days about 60%, and in 28 days - 85%. With an increase in the temperature of the concrete, the timing of its total gaining strength is reduced.

It is necessary to start a brick masonry on the surface of the foundation not earlier than 14-28 days later.

Corps of the furnace

In Russian hollow, the furnace was installed in the corner near the door. From one wall, approximately 20 cm retired, and from another, where the front door was located about 1 meter. In this place, the chunnel was often equipped, where products and kitchen utensils were stored.

On the surface of the foundation that collapsed, 2 layers of waterproofing material (rubberoid, only or other) are stacked. Next, the base of the furnace is laid out. In the classic Russian furnace of the past for this we used a wooden bar or log.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourselfRussian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

  • 1 - SUN;
  • 2 - substairs;
  • 3 - sixth;
  • 4 - under;
  • 5 - dryers;
  • 6 - overlapping;
  • 7 - half-armed;
  • 8 - catch;
  • 9 - chimney pipe

The substairs served for storing kitchen utensils, and in the sub hocks put inventory for the furnace (grasp, kochergi, frying beds). Now this part of the furnace is laying out mainly of the brick (clay ordinary). And you need to use full. Brick happens face and ordinary. Facial is used for cladding, ordinary - for the inner masonry of the furnace.

For surfaces in contact with open fire, it is necessary to use refractory brick (chamoten), which can withstand temperatures more than 1300 ° C.

Glino-sandy

The amount of sand in the clay-sandy solution is determined depending on the thickness of the clay (fat - 2-4% of sand, the average - 15% sand, skinny - 30% of sand). To achieve the highest quality masonry, the sand must be taken sideways through the sieve with 3x3 mm cells.

The proportions of the clay sandy solution:

  • Grease clay: 1 clay bucket, 2.5 sand buckets.
  • Medium clay: 1 clay bucket, 1.5 sand buckets.
  • Skinny clay: 1 clay bucket, 1 sand bucket.

For the preparation of the solution into the container, several buckets of crushed clay are put and poured it with water for 24 hours. Then the portion-needed amount of sand is added to the splashing clay, constantly stirring to a homogeneous consistency.

Furnace Tools

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Russian oven do it yourself: Drawings and order

  • 1 - the square;
  • 2 - Kirk;
  • 3 - chimmer;
  • 4 - level;
  • 5 - line;
  • 6 - trowel;
  • 7 - plumb

Materials

The design of the optic itself is made of clay ordinary brick on a cement-sandy solution based on cement M400, proportion: 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand. The required mobility of the solution can be checked by placing part of it on the shone of shovels at an angle of 45 °.

In this position, the finished solution should not flow. Before starting masonry, bricks are soaked for better clutch with a solution.

For the entire design of the furnace, it will take about 1500 to 2500 pieces of bricks, including refractory, depending on the height of the room and the roof design. Consumption of clay and sand in the solution is about 80 buckets. From the furnace accessories will be required: views, valves and cholemakers.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The view is installed between the High and the pipe to overlap the passage of hot gases from the mountaineer to maintain heat into the furnace. At the place of installation of the view, the headwall is made for bookmark the Hase, which can be used and as natural ventilation of the room.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The flap for the furnace is necessary in order to cover the mouth, adjusting the thermal process in the furnace.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The valve is installed above the view to adjust the thrust in the pipe and prevent the possibility of cold air from the pipe to fall down.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Orders

  • First row Located on the waterproofing of the foundation. In the corners, bricks are used in size in 3/4 and beveled bricks for better dressings of subsequent rows of masonry. The entire design of the adhesive is laid out on cement-sandy solution.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Second row - Beginning of the masonry of the walls of the oven.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Third row . The device of the wall walls continues with the use of bricks in 3/4.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Fourth row It is laid out according to the presented order and implies the use of beveled bricks for support (heels) of the Arch by the Arch.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Fifth row It is placed with the use of bricks in size in 3/4 in the corners of the furnace, beveled bricks for the support of the arch. Here the arch of the sun is laid out. The wooden template is pre-manufactured, which is inserted into the heading of the subground.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Sixth row Located according to the address given. It is made in advance the wooden handset template, which is inserted into the inside of the masonry. In the process of making a template, it is necessary to provide its easy disassembly at the end of the masonry of the first form. For a dense fit of the template to the walls of the masonry below, 1-2 struts are driven down.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Seventh row Ensures laying the arch and subsequent series. The arch is beginning to lay out on both sides, gradually moving towards the middle. The last brick is called Castle, its role is to create a stress of compression at the base of the arch, which will ensure the strength of such a design. In this regard, the last brick is inserted into the interval of less than 1/4 bricks with the help of a pivot. Bricks in the arch fit as close as possible to each other, so the seams are made at the bottom as small as possible, and the upper gaps are performed the same size, in which, if possible, you can pour brick fragments.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Eighth row It provides for one layer of masonry of the walls of the Operation according to the address given with the arrangement of the cold storage area.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Ninth rivers . In addition to one row of walls, the walls of the stub are laid out.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Tenth row Completes the masonry of the walls of the eye. For better insulation of the cold part of the kiln from its hot part, the inner space is covered with dry swamp sand to the upper limit of this row.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Eleventh row Overlaps the heaps completely with the use of a good and beveled brick. From this row, the cement-sandy solution is replaced with clay sandy.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twelfth Begins the device of the hot part of the furnace (under the sixth). Therefore, all surfaces in contact with fire must be made of fire-resistant bricks whose dimensions coincide with the size of the ordinary. The surface of the feed must be smooth. To do this, it is grinding it with fine sand and bricks, removing all the irregularities of the masonry.

In addition, for the convenience of removing coal with a gift, its surface is made with a slope toward the mouth.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Thirteenth row Shears the cooking chamber and the sixth. There is also an arc of the mouth of the hardened metal. The tempered steel wire attached to it is laid in the masonry.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Fourteenth, Fifteenth and Sixteenth Rows Build the walls of the horn and the sixth.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Seventeenth It is a mouthpiece with arched arch in masonry. At this stage, spits from bevelled bricks are laid out, which are supports for the brick hob of the cooking chamber, and the formwork of the hob of the cooking chamber is inserted.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Eighteenth row It is laid out according to the principle of the arch, which is described in the seventh row using the clay and sandy solution and refractory brick.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Nineteenth row Ensures the extension of the walls and the arches of the sixth.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twentieth row It continues to extend the walls, and also partially overlaps the hole over the sixth, leaving the channel for overbreaking. The inner space above the cooking chamber is filled with dry calcined sand.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty first row Overlapping the horn. The channel of overbreaking slightly decreases for the protrusion device, which prevents the penetration of sparks from the cooking space into the pipe. The scribbling canal begins here.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty second rows Completes the device overlap. A sovannik canvas establishes a sideways. Steel wire on its sleeve is climbing in the masonry.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty third row It assumes the laying of the channel of overbreaking and self-fishing. It is also attached to the dryers with a steel hardened wire. In this row, there is a small opening for cleaning the soot from the protrusion of a channel, which is covered with 1/2 bricks, put on the edge and crushed with clay mortar. During cleaning, this brick is knocked out, and at the end of cleaning it is replaced with a new one. Now they often put a special metal plug instead of bricks.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty fourth row It is a continuation of the masonry of the above channels.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty fifth row. In this row, the channel is allocated for installing the view.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty-sixth row It assumes the extension of the dustchani channel, then the channel of the overhauls is overlapped and the view is installed.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty-seventh row It is laid out, as shown on the order. For access to the view opposite it is installed for a semicode.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Twenty-eighth, twenty-ninth and thirtieth row Supplement further masonry channels with sutures.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Thirty first row According to the coach, connects the dryers and the pipe through a narrow passage.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Thirty second rows Overlays dryers and canal connecting drying with a pipe. There is also a valve for tubes over the pipe channel.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • Thirty-third and subsequent ranks The ceiling is assumed to lay the pipe channel.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Without three rows before the ceiling, the cutting is made to increase the thickness of the brickwork. This increases the fire safety of wooden ceiling and roof designs. Next, the riser of the pipe is laid out the same size as the cutting. To avoid the accumulation of condensate on the pipe walls, the pipes are plastered along the metal grid. When the pipe passes through the wooden roof designs, the channel wall thickness also increases. The top of the pipe must be protected from the penetration of precipitation with a metal cap. The laying of the outer part of the pipe is carried out on cement-sandy solution. For strength, it can be plastered.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • 1 - cutting;
  • 2 - overlapping;
  • 3 - insulation;
  • 4 - pipes;
  • 5 - metal sheet;
  • 6 - otter;
  • 7 - cervical tube;
  • 8 - headband;
  • 9 - Metal Cap

The height of the outer part of the pipe to improve the thrust depends on its distance relative to the ridge of the roof.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Furnace dryer

Before full-fledged oven, it must be dried. The first furnace is carried out within 2 hours with a small amount of fuel. If the oven gives a lot of smoke, then a small fire is lit on the view, when it goes out, the view is open completely.

After that, the oven is lit again without closing the pipe for the night. The process of firebox drying lasts about a week.

Little brick oven for summer cottage

Cottage or small country cottage may well hear a mini-stove. The designs of mini-furnaces are similarities with metal bourgearies - at the rate of heating and compactness, but have a significantly higher efficiency. Constructions and technologies of the construction of brick mini-stoves invented a lot. One of the simplest mini-stove schemes will be considered.

Sequence of a small brick furnace device

  • For a mini-stove, you can not let down a special foundation. Wooden floors, provided that the board has a thickness of 50 mm, can well be the base for the stove.
  • After choosing a place for a mini-stove, in the corner of the building, in a simple or niche, waterproofing is carried out under the base of the furnace. For this, any rolled waterproofing materials are applicable in two layers and coating insulation - bituminous and bitumen-polymer mastic.
  • A large dry sand with a thickness of 10 mm is poured on a layer of waterproofing and leveled under the horizon. In the first row, the base of the stove will be 12 bricks laid dry, without a solution. Horizontal reconciliation is performed using a building level.
  • A layer of clay mortar is applied to the starting series of bricks, then a confusion door is installed, winding it with a cord from asbestos. Fasteners in the masonry are performed with wire.
  • The second row and all subsequent lay on the clay solution. Under the grid, a number of non-red ceramic bricks are lattice, but chammatory to provide a lining of mini-fireboxes
  • In the fourth row, bricks are put on the edge. Starting from the level of the beginning of the chimney channel in the rear wall of the furnace, several bricks make "broken" - lay them without a solution, for subsequent flushing of chimney from soot. It is possible to install another door instead of the bad bricks, but the heat loss from the metal door will be greater than that of several bricks without a solution. The masonry of the posterior wall with bad bricks makes with a little displacement outward. Under the inner partition of the chimney channel lay lining from asbarlon or chamot
  • The flue door before installing is wrapped with asbestos cord and fastener on the wire. Opening the door must have a direction up. Fix the door in brickwork with wire anchors

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • In the fifth row of bricks, the plafhmy is placed in the sixth - edge, in the seventh plafhmy, the bandage must be performed, and the last brick of the row always lay out, observing the dressing with the first. But the backstage of the rear wall of the mini-stove under consideration makes only brick on the edge.
  • In the eighth row, the brick closes the furnace door is stacked. In this area, above the furnace, requires a brick with a bevelled face, as the flame must be directed to the cooking plate of the stove, to the core of the burner
  • Installing the cooking hob of the cast iron on the clay solution and directly on the brick is unacceptable, due to the significant difference in linear thermal expansion of cast iron and ceramics. Heating to high temperatures will give in the zone of the deformation zone with the subsequent formation of cracks and destruction. The perimeter of the mini-stove under the stove should have a laying of asbestos cord, and the slab is mounted on the cord
  • After laying a ninth row, a chimney channel is formed in the tenth. A small-sized oven can have a different pattern of chimney - straight, direct or countercurrent, cap, horizontal or vertical, as well as combined. When laying a brick wall with a displacement outside, as in the example under consideration, there will be a chimney pipe having the rear expansion
  • The eleventh row is a plot where the joint is performed: the brick and metallic sequel sections are connected. In the junction level, the master valve with a preliminary winding of asbestos cord and subsequent clay sealing
  • The final stage is the first cleaner cleaner. Remove the groove bricks and remove the construction trash from the chimney, then the bricks are installed on the previous place.

To complete the work requires finishing:

Sandwife under the starting round of bricks should not be saturated, for this seam between the floor and bricks are close to clay mortar and close the plinth, to strengthen the seam and imparting the construction of a common aesthetics

The finish is the simplest and economical - the whiten of the stove with lime twice. Particularly thoroughly need to pass the junction area between the hob and the lower brick side. From the metal of the furnace accessories and the slab lime, it is very difficult to wash off, so it will be reasonable to cover them with polyethylene or other material from splashes and drifts

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

In the schemes-orders of small furnaces of technical difficulties a bit, and accurately performing the order of the furnace with brick of the specified format, it is realistic to obtain a furnace unit that will work correctly, to have an economical fuel consumption and do not smoke.

A few more nuances, usual to perform masonry of brick furnaces of any design:

  1. Drying the stove to accelerant furnace should be complete - the clay solution must completely dry. In this case, during the firing, it will become "stone". Difficult clay solution, giving water too quickly when heated, will go cracks.
  2. Overclocking furnaces produce on a quickly burning fuel - chips, paper. The furnace department should be warm up gradually, with an initial low temperature. Brick and solution in the seams should warm slowly, with complete drying, it adapts the materials and the entire design for subsequent extremal operational modes - long-term contact with open flames and thermal shutters. If you immediately protrude the constructed stove with coal or large lamps, then you can get a cracking mixture in the seams, not necessarily visually visually. But the flue gases and the air of the influx will change the movement in the current and the chimney channel, and this is a direct reduction in efficiency, the incorrect operation of the unit and the smoke indoors.
  3. The first starting rows of the stove are laid out on cement-sand solutions on portland cement PC400 or fast-hardening PC500, subject to the skill of fast masonry. Classic proportions C: n = 1: 4 and 1: 5.
  4. Clay solutions for furnaces are prepared by an experimental way, selecting the amount of sand depending on the fat content of the clay used. The usual proportion ½ - 1/3. For a small furnace, a large amount of clay is not required, therefore it is easier to buy a ready-made dry clay with the fat content indicated on the packaging. Sometimes a chamotte powder and salt adds to the clay solution (to prevent rapid dehydration of the solution in the seams - a glass of table salt on a water bucket for a solution).

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

The most difficult in the design of a small stove is a chimney pipe and a transitional section to chimney. Chimneys are laid out bricks on the edge. Reducing the thickness of the masonry is possible because in the chimney of the temperature is incomparable with heating chamber. In addition, the overall dimensions of the stove are reduced.

Mini-stoves are used in garages, for heating small service buildings, as well as country houses.

Despite the small envelope and simplicity, the mini-oven performs all the functions of the heating unit - heats the room, you can cook food and dry things. To install the cooking cooker with two horses, the design of a greater width and inner separation over a single furnace - for a chimney pipe and a cooking plate.

But changes in the structures are not sufficient, for the device of the furnace with another placement of the cooking plate, it is also necessary to have a good order-order and thoroughly perform the stages of masonry.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Brick coach coach for home

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Tolstoyed furnace with a combined two-fledged system. The array is installed on a strong foundation. Double stroke marked order for the second floor.

Furnace coach with hob

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Suitable for giving or summer kitchen The furnace is loaded with fuel through the hob. It was also not equipped with a door. Gas, passing through the transshipment wall, heads down and only from there goes into the pipe.

4-brick oven 4

Drawings of furnaces and fireplaces

Laying furnaces with your own hands Features and nuances

So that the furnace was economical, it must be maintained in good condition. The crack of the width of only 2 mm in the valve area will provide heat loss at the level of 10% due to the uncontrolled air flow through it.

Turn the oven is also needed correctly. With a highly open confusion, it can fly into a pipe from 15 to 20% of heat, and if the fuel door will be opened during burning, then all 40%.

Firewood, which is token by the furnace must necessarily be dry. To do this, they need to harm the ahead. Raw firewood gives less heat, and besides, due to the abundance of moisture in the chimney, a large amount of acid condensate is formed, which intensively destroys the brick walls.

So that the furnace warmed uniformly, the thickness of the lane should be the same - about 8-10 cm.

Firewood is laid by rows or cells so that the gap of 10 mm remains between them. From the top of the fuel laying to the top of the furnace, the distance of at least 20 mm should remain, even better if the firebox is filled with 2/3.

Rizhane the bulk of fuel produce rays, paper, etc. Use acetone, kerosene or gasoline is prohibited.

After the extracts, you need to block the view so that the heat does not eat through the chimney.

When setting up the thrust during the extracts, you need to navigate the flame color. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow fire; If it became white - the air is served with an excess and much of heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color speaks about the lack of air - fuel burns not completely, and a large amount of harmful substances are thrown into the atmosphere.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Street ovens laying schemes

Stove with a stove for home heating

How to make a stove of this type, described below. The simplest model of small size is 78x53 cm (SHG) and allows you to place one burner. You can use a red brick, but it must be selected very carefully - only even without cracks. This will save on the purchase of refractory stones.

  • For the solution, clay / water / sand is taken (4/1/8 h.). The amount of solution is determined in accordance with the amount of bricks. If the seam is 3-5 mm, then it is enough for 50 pcs. stones.
  • The process of laying the stove is a bit of smaller dimensions as follows:
  • The base is preparing, which is approximately 10 cm wider than the future design, the first brick on the base is placed at the floor level. Under underground from 0.5 m, the pit is not needed.
  • The formwork is made 74x61 cm, on top of the runneroid (in two layers) and concrete is poured. It is starting to build a design after 7 days and no earlier. It is necessary that the foundation is good to dry, otherwise the design will simply seek, can lean and crack.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

  • The design depth is 3 stones, the width is two times less - 1.5 (76x39 cm). Stones are adjusted at first without a solution. The layer of solution for the bottom row is no more than 5 mm.
  • The next tier is left hole for the imaging door. Fastening occurs wire, its ends are laid in the seams. Leave the gap between the metal and stone.
  • Stones 4 tiers are placed on the edge, the furnace is created, behind the smoke turnover. Behind one stone is put without using the solution, it must be removed to clean the camera. In the chimney make two stands, they hold partitions.
  • 5 row are plashed, leave a hole for the door, there will be channels from behind.
  • The door is overlapped from the 8th. A brick with a beveled end is placed in the firebox.
  • After the 9th tier, the cord (asbestos) is placed, it is used as a sealing joint material.
  • On the 10th, the fuel closes the stove.
  • 11 row in the pipe is putting a valve, the pipe is compacted with a cord.
  • The following 2 tiers make the walls of the pipe. How to fold the brick oven with your own hands for the house with a slab of small sizes - stick to this design and everything will turn out. But it must be remembered that there are a number of nuances and the emerging difficulties that need to be immediately solved. If you allow errors, you do not get the desired result. Therefore, it is better to contact a specialist.

Furnace three-rowing scheme

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Oven with brick oven

Swedie with a stove and oven is considered a more complex unit than the system only with a stove. But in everyday life, the first option is much more practical. The hostess can prepare a few dishes at the same time - something to cook something, something bake. If the family is big - no oven definitely not to do.

In the stove with a cooking part and a brass cabinet there is a larger number of rows than that of the heating device without them.

Instructions for creating a Swede with a stove and oven looks like this:

  • The 1st and 2nd row are deaf.
  • From 3 to the 10th rows provide for the place for the oven, there is a damask chamber and a cleansing part.
  • From 11 to the 16th rows leave a place for comfortable work with a cooking surface.
  • The 17th row is deaf again.
  • From 18 to 31st row, the furnace is placed so that it can adequately function: it appears the air exchange system and chimney.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Brick Corner Furnace

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

How to make a back in a brick furnace

The laying of the arch is starting from the edges, from both so much. Next, they perform the middle of the arch and the castle, laying the bricks as close as possible so that they almost come into contact with each other from the fuel side. Longitudinal seams are located along the arc arches radius.

In the last row with an effort, the lock brick is inserted, lubricated on both sides by the clay solution, and tapping on it with a wooden hammer so that it sat down well in place.

Asolnik for the furnace with his own hands

Why do you need a retractable ash with a furnace?

This is a box that is extended from the hole under the furnace. In the adjustment state over the ashlast there are places. This is a kind of grill intended for the free air current in the furnace and as a result of better fuel combustion. Through these grinding, the ash wakes up in the ashpan, and due to this, a kind of draft, which creates thrust for burning occurs. Due to this draft from the firebox, the smoke is derived to the street.

If, besides the ash bar, it is not provided in the stove, the special door is suitable for improving the draft with a special door, the asolnik himself opens.

Characteristics of retractable ash bar

To determine the size of the ash, there are no certain calculations. It is enough that the retractable ashite is not less than the sizes of grate, so that the ash does not wake up by. This applies to both the length and the width of the box. Moreover, the length should be a little longer than the grate for the possibility of increasing it to push it to the draft.

It's easier to buy grate and ash spots together or in a set to try sizes in place.

Since in the furnace furnace or a fireplace, a large temperature, a roller, respectively, must be metallic. Usually it is a sheet steel whose thickness is at least 0.5 mm. Sometimes, when laying a fireplace or stove, the ashpan is also laid out of the brick.

Application

If you do not use the ash bar, a red-tier situation is created, because you need to highlight the iron bucket, scoop and constantly clean the place under the grate. When applying a box of correct sizes, it is enough at the end of the burning process to go outside to shake the ash. Also, the roller performs the function of the obstacle to the fallen coals or ash, because the exhausted corner can spoil the floor covering.

Holes for retractable ashtar are located differently. In some models, they are from the side of the facade, and in others - from the side of the furnace. In the warm season, the fuel is less consumed, so the ash is not necessarily cut every day. You can sink ash in a few days, and then release the asht.

Currently, there is a special vacuum cleaner, which is made specifically for the harvest of ash, because it is not removed to the end. In the private sector, the ash is widely used to fertilize the household plot or swelling paths, which practically do not dry. After all, it contains many minerals that serve as feeding for cultures and make the soil loose.

To prepare this fertilizer, you need a barrel with a lid. All winter you will save ash, because the rains all minerals from ash are washed out, and it becomes almost useless. And before the ash made alkali and used it as a dishwasher.

In the process of furnace furnace or a fireplace solid fuel formed ash. To collect it in a certain place, use the ash bar.

Stove with your own hands with good heat transfer

Scheme of wells in a brick oven

Overlapping of a brick furnace

Front furnace do it yourself order

Different types of heaters are used to heat private houses. Among such devices are distinguished furnaces that do not have a ash bar. In them, firewood is stacked on the grid or bottom. The main scope of application is bakery and restaurants, but can also be used to intimidate the premises.

(+118 photos) Step-by-step instructions How to add the oven yourself

Design of the furnace

The heater consists of several elements, each of which performs a specific function.

  • Convection chamber. Valves and blinds are located at the top.
  • Case. Steel or shaft is selected as the material.
  • Direct stroke. It is used to direct the smoke into the pipe.
  • Main furnace.
  • Side floors.
  • Refractory part. For this, a chamotte brick is used.
  • Under.
  • Reinforced wall.
  • Chamotte brick in the combustion chamber №4.
  • Camera combustion №4.
  • Hole for chimney.

Each model is equipped with a steel or cast iron door. In the center can make a heat-resistant window to follow the flame.

Devices intended for cooking have in their composition lattice and burners for the installation of dishes.

Operating principle

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The work of the subsidence differs from the classic one. The main property of such products is a high efficiency with minimal fuel spending. Rouge is distributed evenly. Due to the aircraft incoming through the door, there is sufficient oxidation of firewood, increasing the quality of their combustion and the level of heat release.

The firewood tab is carried out at the lower level in the boot chamber. Then the combustion process occurs in the working area. From the top level, gases are discharged and heat exchange occurs.

To maintain high temperatures (about 400 ° C), the furnace housing is made of stainless steel steel. The calculation is made of chamotte brick or other fire-resistant material.

Features of use

The furnace is easy to operate. To warm up the product you need to do the following:

  • Download pallets into a wood-burning furnace. Gas and electrical models are connected to the gas industry and the power grid, respectively.
  • Seeing TEN after downtime in an electric furnace. The remaining types can be immediately included.
  • Select the desired program mode.
  • Heat the chimney for 6-7 minutes.
  • Control the thermostat indicators. Temperature is maintained automatically in most modern models.

If the furnace is used for cooking, you need to open the lid and immerse it in the chamber sheets with kitchen utensils. After completion, the device is turned off. Do not keep it in a working condition for more than an hour.

Features of the creation of brick furnaces do it yourself

All structures regardless of the modification have the following elements in their design:

  • foundation;
  • furnace;
  • coopers;
  • ash bar or pondered;
  • Standing of smoke removal.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

During construction, it should be borne in mind that the foundation serves as a heat insulating layer - it is brick or reinforced concrete.

There are three main varieties of brick oven:

  • Dutch.
  • Swedish.
  • Russian.

Used in everyday life for heating and cooking. The Russian oven is not only the most convenient efficiency, but also the sole is a laying. The Holland is most convenient for making manually, which is why the so-called "Stolinanka" appeared on its basis, which won the popularity of private mansion owners.

Important! In the Russian furnace, the hostess is preparing a sub-type bread - the National Slavic dish.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Benefits:

  • The efficiency is higher than that of the analogs - 71%.
  • High heat capacity of the case and slower cooling compared to cast iron or metal.
  • Efficiency and smaller harm to nature - fuel combines almost completely with the greatest heat transfer.
  • Heating to high temperature, the brick stove will never be so burning hot as metal.
  • When heated, the air is not so much dried. The brick oven breathes, leaving the humidity of the heated air at a comfortable level - 40-60%.
  • Humidity supports due to the fact that steam is allocated, and when cooled it absorbs. This maintains the temperature balance. When heating "Burzhuyki" there is a combustion of the dust in the air, which, in general, not very positively affects health.
  • The brick oven excess heat evenly distributes in its body, so overheating never happens and do not need to adjust the fuel supply by small portions.

Disadvantages of brick stoves:

  • Poorly suitable for the premises, which are heated once from time, that is, heat the fully cooled room with a brick furnace is much more difficult;
  • The brick stove is usually massive, and is built during the construction of the house;
  • The furnace can be small, but then it is better suited for cooking or heating one small room;
  • The furnace is not suitable for heating the premises with rotary evaporations: livestock farms, greenhouses, greenhouses, and the like;
  • The functionality of brick stoves is quite extensive: smoking meat and fish, molding scrap metal, hardening and cementing of metal products, ceramics firing, heating blanks in the blacksmith, support for the temperature and humidity regime in the bath.

Note! A variety of masonry furnaces in the Dutch principle is called a column.

The version of this furnace appeared when the Dutch types of brick stoves were distributed. Masters ordered similar furnaces and they had to invent their variation only on the basis of external similarity.

The principle of erection of such an oven is not much different from the common "Dutch", "Swedish", "Caminets". Suitable for the heating of your house and for giving. The technology of the furnace is such that the channels can be located horizontally and vertically, and have 1, 3, 5, 7 revolutions.

Furnace installation options in the house

The placement of the furnace depends entirely on what the owners are waiting for it. If it is installed in the house of a small area and will be used in the form of a fireplace for friendly sites, you can use the first scheme. Such a stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on a grid or kebabs.

Brick furnaces

The second scheme is for the house of a solid square. In this case, the front side of the fire-fire furnace goes into the living room, the chimney walls are heated both bedrooms, and heat in the rest of the rooms is supported using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a furnace for heating and cooking is a budget accommodation for a bachelor or a small family. Pluses are a warm lay and the possibility of accommodation in the hallway dryers.

Important: It is necessary to take care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it repeatedly increases the efficiency of furnace heating.

Furnace structure

If a person has a number of necessary skills, he can easily make a brick oven with his own hands. To do this, just need to know from what the product itself consists.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

When laying the furnace, three main parts are distinguished. This is the "body" of the product, the foundation base and chimney. Well, the design itself consists of:

  • Fundamental basis;
  • Protective material from water ingress;
  • Shanntans (special holes made for heating the bottom of the room);
  • Pissed (plus his door);
  • Air canal that warms the room all over height;
  • Grilles of the grate;
  • Heat part (along with the door and arch);
  • "High";
  • Doors for cleaning;
  • Drying (along with the pass and the output door);
  • Valves, which regulates the direction of the stroke;
  • Chimney;
  • Convector channel;
  • Valves, which overlaps the chimney so as not to lose heat;
  • Chimney holes;
  • Overlaps;
  • Folk.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

pros

Despite the existence of a set of alternative heating devices, the brick oven is in great demand at the expense of its good advantages.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

First of all, it is possible to note the environmental friendliness of the construction, because all the materials that are used, have a natural nature.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Secondly (and this is the most important) masonry of the brick oven knows how to "breathe", which allows the dew point in the house in the most optimal condition. Due to this indicator, a pleasant atmosphere is supported in the building.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

And of course, when using such a heating device, it is possible to achieve the right room temperature (in the area of ​​17 ° -21 ° Celsius). At this temperature, people do not have discomfort, and clothes remain dry.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

From here you can make only one conclusion. The brick oven has a much greater efficiency compared to other thermal instruments. And this is already talking about many.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

How to build a durable burning furnace

Pretty many owners of houses with furnace heating would be interesting to remake their brick stove so that she worked in long-term combustion. Nevertheless, it will not work at home.

The fact is that for work in this mode, the sealing of the furnace should be ensured, in which smoke will be collected with a large concentration of carbon monoxide gases. You can not allow these gases to the room. At the same time, it is necessary to minimize the air flow that can be done with the help of the door, but it is very uncomfortable.

Brick oven for home heating

To some degrees of fuel, you can achieve in a Russian or Dutch furnace. However, it is unsafe, so it's better to stop your choice on the furnace, which will keep warm for a long time. Alternatively, you can buy a factory metal oven for long burning, which, by the way, will cost cheaper than to build a brick furnace for home with your own hands. Yes, and the efficiency of them will not be lower.

If you still decided to build a brick oven yourself, weigh all the arguments and decide on the design. Then it will be necessary to find a piece of laying description and purchase consumables. Please note that furnace work requires certain skills.

Before starting the furnace masonry, it is necessary to pour a powerful foundation, and its dimensions must exceed the body of the furnace by 10-15 cm on each side. You can use a concrete solution with a reinforcing mesh, a boot stone or concrete blocks. Remember that the furnace foundation should not be associated with the main foundation of the house, otherwise, with the interseasonal shifts of the soil, the furnace or chimney can burst.

The body of the furnace is laying out of two types of bricks - full and chamotte. Fireproof chamotte brick is used for masonry especially hot places - flue chamber and smoke channels. For the grip of refractory bricks, a solution based on chamotte clay is used or with the addition of chamotte powder.

To save on the masonry, chamotte brick is put only in those places where the usual full-length is impossible. All other structural elements, including chimney, are performed from ceramic bricks. For their masonry, a solution is suitable on a furnace clay or a special composition with heat-resistant cement.

Brick oven for home do it yourself drawings

Please note that to compensate for the difference in thermal expansion between refractory and ceramic bricks leave a gap of 5 mm.

All factory parts are the views, coopers, doors, dampers, a cooking surface - you need to install in the places provided by the scheme. For the strength of the mounting of the door to it, the calcined wire is 30-40 cm of length and tinted it in the masonry. As for the grateproof and cast-iron stove, they make grooves in bricks, taking into account the gaps to a metal of 5 mm on the temperature expansion and laying of the cord or asbestos tissue.

The last element of the furnace is chimney. It can be made of ceramic brick or purchase a finished block chimney. Factory products are not only durable, but also resistant to condensate with a coal acid content for a long time they do not clog and provide good traction.

The finishing finish of the finished furnace is made at the discretion of the owners. You can use clinker, ceramic tiles or finishing stone. This will give the furnace finished and attractive appearance, as well as protect against moisture and dust, which will extend its service life.

From how responsible and competently, you will come up to the choice of the furnace design and its manufacture, not only its durability, but also the safety of tenants will depend on it. Be that as it may, the brick oven on firewood always fills the house with live warmth and brings comfort and comfort.

Types of brick furnaces for home

Here you will learn:

  • Classification of brick furnaces
  • Forms of brick furnaces for home
  • Types of chimney
  • Constructive elements of furnaces
  • How to choose a furnace for a brick house
  • How to choose a place for the oven
  • Features of masonry brick furnace with their own hands

The history of the wood furnace has a century, if not the millennium. In different countries, the best models have received deserved distribution.

Such structures are used today, both in classic form and with some additions.

Holland

This design was created by Russian masters. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But it does not interfere with it well to give the accumulated heat.

pech-iz-kirpicha-13.jpg

Russian oven.

Large and multifunctional oven. But its size justifies the presence of a free space where you can relax. Under the layer there is a firebox, it can be prepared in it. Next to the furnace is a stove, and a little below pissed, which supports the fire. Also there is a niche for freshly prepared food.

pech-iz-kirpicha-33.jpg

The Russian oven without difficulty will warm the room of which exceeds 40 square meters. But for a full-fledged robot, a lot of raw materials will need.

pech-iz-kirpicha-27.jpg

Swede

Refer to compact options. In length and width - 1 meter . The main function is the heating of the room, but you can also cook food on it too. The unusualness of such a furnace is that the stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

pech-iz-kirpicha-31.jpg

This design is fire hazard. But the risk of ignition decreases with dampers.

pech-iz-kirpicha-26_0.jpg

Capacked

Furnace Capacked

One of the most modern developments - the ovens of a hub type.

Their difference is the ability to strain evenly from all sides and to hold heat for a long time. In contrast to channel stoves, there are no winding narrow channels in the cap or dome, so they are not less suspended by precipitation of solid particles and narrowing the chimney.

The principle of their action Such: smoke from the furnace climbs up, under the hood, where it is delayed before cooling, after which it drops down along the walls, heating them. The stove can have a whole cascade of the caps in which the smoke gradually cools, so the effectiveness of such stoves is very high.

Advantages of cabic furnaces:

  • Simple design and a small amount of material required for masonry, low price;
  • The stove can be stirred from a cold state, while it quickly heats all adjacent rooms;
  • If you forget to close the damper, the furnace will not cool down like "Holland", thanks to the so-called gas boss that prevents the inverse thrust;
  • If desired, it can be equipped with a cooking surface and heat exchanger;
  • This furnace will be able to add even a novice firing.

The disadvantages of this furnace is practically deprived, so the summer houses and country house owners are very popular.

Cap type stoves - excellent choice for giving, country house, cottage. Thanks to any possible number of cascades, several rooms can be made at once, including two floors.

Fireplaces and combined fireplaces

ustrojstvo.jpg

Device diagram of the furnace

If we talk about the furnaces - fireplaces, it immediately seems to be a certain building from the brick, which serves the decoration of the apartment. However, a decorative fireplace and a furnace-fireplace is not the same thing. Considering the devices associated with the word "fireplace", one can allocate the following varieties: a decorative (artificial) fireplace, a valid fireplace and a fireplace stove. Artificial hearth is an element of design, and not equipment for heating residential premises. This fireplace consists of a portal, fireboxes and chimns. Fold it will not be a lot of work. Depending on the installation method, 3 main types will be allocated:

  1. Corner fireplace . It is installed in the corner of the room. This location allows you to heat several rooms at once.
  2. Closed fireplace . It takes very little space, as it is located in the wall of the house. Installation of the furnace is produced in the construction process of the building.
  3. Outdoor fireplace . Usually it is arranged in the middle of the room in the room of a large square. In this case, the chimney is suspended using special chain mounts.

Brick furnaces - fireplaces can have different forms according to the selected style. The classic option is a P-shaped design with decor elements. . D-shaped construction is typical for country style. The focus of a rectangular or semicircular form reflects the style of modern.

The fireplace stove is a kind of hybrid of a household furnace and fireplace. The device quickly heats the room and is suitable for making any dishes, heating water and food, drying mushrooms and fruits. Master of furnace arts offer a number of diverse designs that are conveniently located in the house of any planning (Fig. 6). In rainy weather, the furnace-fireplace made of bricks forms special comfort in the house.

Finnish stove

Finnish brick furnaces received their name due to quite widespread use in Scandinavian countries. Their popularity in Russia is explained by climate similarity and heating requirements. They belong to the caps, the heating of the room is carried out due to heat recovery from the massive stove case.

The advantages of this species can be called:

  • Ease of device such a design;
  • Low weight;
  • The cost of such a model is quite budget;
  • Possesses good heat transfer, and has a high efficiency;
  • Due to the presence of a large firebox, it is quickly heated;
  • Properly folded design is very aesthetic.

kirpichnaya-pech-finka-150x150_0.jpg

Brick oven "Finca"

CERTEZH-FINSKOY-PECHKI-150X150.JPG

Drawing of the Finnish stove

FINSKAYA-PECHKA-IMEET-OCHEN-BOLSHOE-TOPOCHNOE-OTDE-150X150.JPG

Finnish stove has a very large fire department

Usually such products are installed in the center of the room.

Terms of construction

A homemade oven must meet the requirement of fire safety. Therefore, you need to pay special attention to the preparation for construction.

  1. Determine the location of the furnace.
  2. Prepare the right drawing.
  3. Buy high-quality materials for construction.
  4. Purchase tools.
  5. Create estimates.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Properly composed drawings will become your main assistants, as it is the drawings of a homemade brick furnace help to avoid many mistakes. Finished plans can be found on the Internet.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

When choosing a place of installation, you need to take into account the area of ​​the room and the type of furnace. It is difficult to calculate everything yourself, therefore it is easier to use a reduced mockup of a brick furnace, whose photo is on the Internet.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Preparatory work before the start of building a brick furnace

It is necessary to select the order scheme. To determine the exact amount of bricks, it is better to first carry out the process of masonry on dry. This is important especially for those who make such work for the first time.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

The process of masonry on dry is a preliminary work to assess the correctness of the coaches and the number of selected materials. When the furnace brick heating wood hawk is placed with their own hands, the order borrowed in the reference literature will allow you to evaluate the scale of work and labor costs, as well as determine the amount of material spent and cost.

Calculation of the main parameters

Before starting construction work, you must calculate what kind of power the oven is necessary for installation in a particular house. Dimensions are determined on the basis of the possibilities of the furnace heat transfer. For well insulated buildings, the calculation algorithm is suitable for I. V. Kuznetsova. It assumes the use of averaged thermal power, which can be obtained from 1 m2 of the furnace surface.

For most furnaces, the characteristic indicator is 0.5 kW / m2, and with intensive work during a significant cooling - 0.76 kW / m2.

When determining the thermal power of the brick furnace, only those surfaces that are involved in the process of thermal exchange are taken into account.

It is not recommended for small rooms to choose massive rude. This is due to the fact that they will warm up too long, and half the heat will come out through the chimney. It is recommended to arrange it at the intersection of residential rooms so that they evenly warmed up.

Drawings and schemes of brick stoves

Based on the proposed drawings, you can design and make a brick stove with your own hands.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

The following schemes are one of the most popular structural solutions. Such rude do with their own bricks can be constructed in a private house without assistance.

Flak

It is possible to determine the optimal sizes of the furnace based on the maximum fuel laying volume. The calculation of the amount of combustible materials is carried out taking into account the calorific value, their specific gravity. For the stove to work in the required power, the volume of the furnace should be 2-3 times the resulting value.

With a properly selected volume of the fiber part, you can heat the furnace at extremely low temperatures outside the window. The size of the combustion chamber must correspond to the parameters of the bricks from which the furnace will be folded.

The maximum laying of solid fuel in its volume should not exceed 2/3 of the furnace of the furnace.

Solnik

The height of the ashtar is calculated taking into account the type of fuel, which will be used for heating the room.

Malozol varieties - coal, peat. For such a type of fuel, the height of the roller should be about 1/3 of the height of the fuel. Solid wood fuel - pallets, firewood. In this case, the height of the ash bar is reduced to 1/5.

The arrangement of the ash bar in the furnace is mandatory. Combustion products will fall into this chamber and do not apply throughout the inner surface. Clean the oven in front of the cold season will be easy.

Chimney

Chimney is a mandatory part of the heating system, since the products of combustion of fuel come through it. Gas boilers require good thrust, so the pipe is installed round shape. For a furnace operating with solid fuel, it is enough to be a rectangular option.

When calculating the size of the chimney, they take into account that the cross section began to be less than the area of ​​the gas plant. Also, the parameters of standard bricks used as the main building material are taken into account.

Significantly increase the sections of the section is not recommended: cold air will penetrate on a wide tube. This will worsen performance and will lead to dangerous situations.

Too narrow chimneys can greatly smoke. This leads to carbon monoxide poisoning and the possibility of fire. You can prevent the problem with an asbetic tube or a masonry of another row of bricks.

The chimney should not touch the wooden parts of the ceiling. During construction, it is necessary to ensure that the distance from the cutting of the chimney to nearby ceiling beams was the same. The chimney must defend from the ridge of the roof by 1.5 m, and to rise above it - by 0.5 m.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Usually, the location of the furnace is denoted before the construction of the house in the project. It is necessary in order to establish the heating equipment in the place where the warm air flows will be evenly distributed over the premises. The foundation for the furnace should be separate from the overall base of the house. The distance between their walls should be at least 150 mm.

Failure to comply with the norms regarding the construction of the foundation will lead to the deformation of nearby walls.

The correctly installed oven should heat several rooms at once, located through the wall. If there are several rooms in the house, it is kidnapped at the crossroads of the walls. Since the foundations must be separate, the inner walls are better to make light.

There are cases when the furnace is installed next to the entrance door. So make a thermal curtain that protects rooms from the penetration of cold air masses.

It is better not to have the face of the stove close to the walls of the house. This is due to the fact that it is necessary to ensure full-fledged access to rough. Owners are advised to regularly examine the heating equipment: this is observance of safety equipment. If the stove is part of the wall of the residential building, then between it and the end part of the partition lay a layer of heat melascence.

If the furnace is installed in the constructed room, then it is necessary to check the chimney to be too close to the beams. The distance is more than 15 cm, taking into account the thermal insulating gasket.

The platform in front of the furnace is covered with fireproof material. Typically choose metal sheets or tiles of ceramics.

Construction of foundation

So that the stove worked safely and efficiently, you need to properly equip the foundation. It should be separate from the general one.

Before starting the design and laying of the foundation, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the remoteness of the chimney from the roof overlap must be more than 15 cm. Marking is applied, where rude will be located.

If there are floors from the tree in the house, they cut them out in the location of the stove. From the outer edge, 15 cm are retreating. In the resulting hole digging the pitual. Its depth depends on the climatic conditions of the region and the degree of primerization of the soil, usually 0.7 - 0.8 m.

At the bottom of the pit gradually pour 15 cm of sand. It must be watered with water for sealing. From above pour rubbing layer to 15 cm. It is tightly evenly tamper. In the corners of the resulting pit, wooden peasants are scored, facing boards are attached to them. The walls are covered with a polyethylene wall so that cement mortar will not be leaked there.

A reinforcement grid is installed on the floor 5-10 cm. It is placed on the nailed metal rods or bricks debris.

Concrete is preparing for the fill of the foundation. Cement (M-400), sand and crushed stone are mixed for this. 1: 3: 4 ratio. Waters pour a small amount: the consistency should be average yield. If you move, the base will be fragile, it will begin to quickly collapse under the load of rude.

The cooked mixture is filled with formwork, align the rules. A few hours later, when the composition "grab", it needs to be covered with a film. The prepared place for the design is left for several weeks before drying the solution.

The top base of the stove should be located 15-20 cm below the floor level.

Preparation of solution

Clay and sand solutions are used to masonry furnaces in a private house. Kaolin and chammed mergel are suitable for chamot. For ceramic bricks take ground gray, blue Cambrian clay with refractory characteristics.

About 40 kg of clay will need 100 bricks.

Before preparing a solution, clay is tested for fatty. It is necessary in order to determine which proportion it needs to be mixed with sand.

To check 1 kg of clay powder poured with water to the upper face, the day insist. If Mergel is used in construction, it is enough to stand for 2 hours. After zakin, the clay is bred by water, the consistency should resemble a thick dough.

The resulting wet clay is divided into 5 equal parts. Each sand in different percentage ratio is added: 10%, 30%, 50%, 70%, 100%. After that, the resulting composition is dried within 4 hours. From each mass, small sausages roll (diameter - 1.5 cm, length - 30 cm), turn them into a circle.

  1. If there are no cracks in solution, it is suitable for any construction.
  2. There is a dry crust and a minimum of damage - can be used.
  3. Cracks make up about 1 mm deep into - suitable only for low-power heating equipment.
  4. There are foes and deep damage - the solution is prohibited.

It is possible to prepare a solution according to an identical algorithm.

  1. The required amount of clay pour water for a day.
  2. To wash it up to the consistency of the test, sift through the sieve 3x3 mm - it will remove the lumps.
  3. Add sand in the proportion, which the test showed optimal.
  4. Pour water, stir until the consistency looks like a thick sour cream.

If fat is not enough, you need to plug sand or clay. It is checked by Kelma - the trowel is wetted in solution and evaluate the result. With a normal ratio of the components, 1-2 mm composition will be poured, not more than no less.

Necessary materials and tools

Ideally, for construction, a furnace or chammatory brick is used, but a ceramic or simpler is suitable. The masonry can be carried out on a dry or solution. In this case, a cement-sandy solution is used or a more democratic clay. To save money, the highest quality brick is used for cladding and the most vulnerable elements, and for the construction of the furnace inside - the brick is simpler.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

The toolkit that is needed to build a dutch or another model:

  • Workshops of various types - 3-4 pieces;
  • pick;
  • rope;
  • kiyanka;
  • plumb;
  • building level;
  • rule;
  • Corolnic;
  • Mop;
  • meter;
  • roulette;
  • exercise;
  • mortar shovel.

Basic masonry techniques

By making the decision to fold the brick oven, the first thing you need to choose a design that meets the requests, find a scheme-order and description of the masonry, after which you can start buying material and purchased items. Laying a brick stove requires knowledge of basic work techniques.

  • Under the brick furnace, the foundation is required, the dimensions of which exceed the dimensions of the furnace sample by 100-150 mm on each side. It can be made of reinforced concrete, as well as complicated from concrete blocks or boob stone. The main requirement that needs to be observed is the foundation for the furnace should not have a tough connection with the foundation of the house, otherwise, during seasonal shifts, damage to the furnace or pipe is possible.
  • For furnace masonry with their own hands, two types of bricks are used: red full of ceramics and refractory chamotte, yellow shade. From chamoite bricks, the most heated surfaces are hungry, flue channels, and a refractory masonry solution based on chamotte clay is used. The price of these materials is higher than that of the usual brick, so the shamot is used only where it is necessary. All other elements of the furnace and chimney are placed from ceramic bricks, while a solution based on chimney red clay or a purchase composition, including heat-resistant cement.

Between chammed and ceramic masonry, be sure to withstand the gap of about 5 mm to compensate for the various temperature deformation of these materials.

  • Purchased elements - grate, doors, tops and cooking plates - put in accordance with the scheme. The doors are fixed with an annealed steel wire with a length of at least 30-40 cm. It is inserted in one end to the door-intended hole in the door frame, and the other end is fixed between bricks on a masonry solution. The slab and the grille lay on the previous row of masonry into the grooves selected in the brick. To compensate for different temperature expansion, brick and cast iron use asbestos tissue or cord.
  • The chimney of the brick furnace is also usually performed from the brick, but the ceramic block chimney of industrial production can also be used. It is distinguished by a long service life, increased resistance to condensate containing coal acid, creates stable traction, does not clog.
  • To give the stove of aesthetic appearance, it can be bred by a finishing stone, clinker, tiles. The finish gives the furnace not only a beautiful appearance, but also protects it from harmful effects of water and dust, and, although the price of such an oven is obtained somewhat higher, its service life increases significantly.

Video: Furnace mason do it yourself

Step-by-step instructions with photos on the stove masonry

Different cookies have their own laying technologies and their own secrets who have come over the years. It contains information about a fairly simple way to create a fireplace furnace for heating a two-storey house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even novice burns.

Laying Fundament

Basic row of brickwork will serve as a foundation. It is performed by any brick, some cookies even fall asleep this level of rubble.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

When laying a baseline, a cement solution is used.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The foundation is completely filled with a solution, the layer is aligned.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Body construction of the furnace

Placed the first furnace series. The horizontal, from which it is repelled when markup is the wall of the room.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Where the fireplace is planned to be placed, grille plays. From this row, bricks are already stacked on a furnace solution.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Laying of the second row. The furnace wall, which is closest to the wall of the room, is amplified by additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where the chimney will be located, in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the furnace is fully laid. The door is mounted, through which the owners will clean the ash.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The door is installed on the solution, levels in terms of level. For more reliable fixation, it is fixed with the wire that needs to be laid between the bricks.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The following 3 rows are put on. Then it is installed from the bricks for the grid - on the sides, 2 rows of 1/4 bricks are placed.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The lattice is not placed on a simple, but on the refractory brick. So that it lay on the same level with bricks, holes are cut into chamotte bricks.

The size of the brick is easily adjusted - it is too much measured and neatly cut off.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The large door is mounted next to the lattice installed.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

A large furnace door is similarly fixed with a wire fastener.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

At exactly the fireplace is put on the first furnace row, it is enhanced by metal corners and a strip or tuss. To lay the masonry to lie on them, it cuts over with the help of a grinder, then the slots are made manually to the desired size.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The following brick row is put on.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

On the refractory brick on a par with a brick nearby the fireplace lattice is stacked.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted under it.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The furnace of the new stove with the fireplace is ready.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Fire-resistant chamotte bricks are put on the furnace firebox.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The body of the stove is built.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Creating a chimney

The place left under the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires the amplification of metal plates.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Fixed brick wells chimney.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Over the roof of the furnace are mounted soother.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Wells are again separated, the first rows of the walls should be increased by strips of metal.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

After the amplification, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space belonging to the chimney remains empty.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The cornice of the body is laid out, then the smokers are put.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The final stage of the work on the first floor. The stove is located on the left below, smoke inside the chimneys move along the helix and leaves the left at the top. The final separation of the wells is closed with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for pressure inside the fireplace furnace, 2 brick rows are stacked on the trick.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The second floor of the house stretches two chims - from the fireplace and the oven itself, they are divided among themselves. For each chimney, installing a separate valve.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

The level of overlapping the second floor. Here is mounted waterproofing, chimney is again enhanced by metal corners. To save and not build an oven for heating on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again separated. Smoke will go on it a snake, having time to warm the room. So that the chimney warms up much faster, it is placed in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 bricks.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

In the roof, a hole for the chimney chimney is neatly pushed.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Before removing the chimney to the roof, it is strengthened with metal corners.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

If the chimney is in close proximity to the roofing skate, it needs to be uploaded above the skate at least 0.5 meters. If further, the height of the chimney is allowed, equal to the height of the skate, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the oven thrust, lifting the smoke.

Brick oven for home with your own hands

Even a small oven in the house is comfort and comfort. Larger stoves require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.

Furnace-fireplace "Swedie" A. Ryazankina

Positively popular, thanks to its effectiveness, the heating and cooking furnace of the Swedish type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to drop the house, but also prepare lunch.

Appearance

Appearance "Swedish" Ryazankina

Such a furnace is usually installed between the kitchen and the residential area of ​​the house, having it in such a way that the cooking plate and oven are turned toward the kitchen. In some designs, "Swedish" from the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom, a fireplace is provided. It is this option that it is worth considering, as it is perfect for both spacious and small build, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

Front and rear furnace walls

Front and rear furnace walls

This furnace model is heated with firewood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height without taking into account the pipe. It should also be envisaged that the portal of the fireplace will act beyond the structure of 130 mm. The foundation should be larger than the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of "Swedes" reaches 3000 kcal / hour.

For the construction of this model, the following materials will be required:

  • Red Brick, excluding pipe masonry - 714 pcs.
  • Standing door 140 × 140 mm - 1 pc.
  • Door for the furnace chamber 210 × 250 mm - 1 pc.
  • Door for clean cameras 140 × 140 mm - 8 pcs.
  • Okrug cabinet 450 × 360 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
  • Two-door cast iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
  • Gear grate 200 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
  • Shifting valve 130 × 250 mm - 3 pcs.
  • Steel corner 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 920 mm - 3 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 530 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 480 mm - 2 pcs.
  • The lattice for the fireplace, it can be made independently from the reinforcement rods.
  • Metal sheet for flooring before the furnace 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
  • Asbestoset or cord for laying between metal elements and cloth bricks.

Masonry furnace

On the presented schemes, the location of all cast-iron elements of the fireplace furnace is shown in detail, and the masonry description will help avoid mistakes on some, quite complex, stages of work.

Location of the main elements of the furnace

Location of the main elements of the furnace

Experienced Masteners are recommended to perform the masonry of the entire furnace to start dry, that is, without a solution, adhering to the scheme and disassembled in the configuration of each row. This process is especially important to conduct newcomers who are barely familiar with the work of the liver.

Another cunning of experienced masters is a preliminary fitting and laying of each of the rows without a solution in the process of work. Any row is first laid out, and if there is a need, separate bricks are cut off or peredalized, and then their masonry is already produced.

Such an approach will somewhat slow down, but it will make it much better, without errors that are able to negatively affect the creation of a normal traction.

Performing a masonry, at hand you need to keep not only the scheme of each of the rows, but also the drawing of the furnace in the context. It will also help - allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnace.

Cuts and gas movement scheme

Cuts and gas movement scheme

So, the laying is made as follows:

Order - from 1 to 6 row

Order - from 1 to 6 row

  • The first, solid row of the furnace, is placed on the headline wall on the finished foundation. It is very important to lay out a number perfectly and right, since the quality of the masonry of the whole design will depend on it. Therefore, it first stands the belt Ruberoid to be placed using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing out the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, leaning on the scheme and observing the configuration of the styling of the brick, the first row is assembly, and then the masonry per solution.
  • 2 row. It contains metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, which will be fixed in the future with welding the fireplace grille, or this decorative element is fully mixed. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
  • 3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and configuration chamber are mounted, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or covered asbestos. To fix the door on the ground, the wire is used, which is fought in the special loop-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the laying seams, where it is fixed with the solution and presses the upper round of bricks. Temporarily, before the final consolidation, the doors on both sides are mapped with bricks.

So the cast iron doors are installed

So the cast iron doors are installed

  • 4 row. The work goes according to the scheme, but a number is notable for the fact that the doors from two sides are fixed with the masonry that you need to withdraw perfectly smoothly. The seams in this area can be two - three millimeters wider, due to the wires embedded in them.
  • 5 row is recommended to lay out with the use of chamotte fire-resistant brick, as well as all the walls of the furnace chamber. In the same row, a grate grid and an oven box, which is wrapped or plated asbestos, in order to avoid its premature exercise.

Asbestos gaskets on metal elements

Asbestos gaskets on metal elements

  • 6 row. A flue door is installed on this row, incorrosted by asbestos cord, and with wire segments recorded in it.

Order from 7 to 12 row

Order from 7 to 12 row

  • 7 row. The masonry is made according to the scheme, a steel band is mounted above the wall walls, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is placed smoothly or in the form of a half mart, giving it a necessary form in advance.
  • 8 and 9 ranks are laid out according to the scheme presented.
  • 10 row. The front wall of the furnace is strengthened, as a cast-iron cooking plate will be mounted in this part of the structure. A steel corner is fixed on the wall using two wire hooks, then the segments of the asbestos sheet are put on the installation site, and the stove itself is installed. In the same row, the door is fixed by another sewage chamber.
  • 11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row there is overlapping the door of the sewage chamber.

Order - from 13 to 24 row

Order - from 13 to 24 row

  • From 13 to 15 rows are put on the designed scheme, strictly adhering to the configuration of brick masonry.
  • 16 row. The device of the chamber walls is completed, located above the cooking plate, which overlaps with metal stripes. They will serve as the basis for laying the bricks of the next row.
  • 17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
  • 19 row. At this stage, the doors of the sewage chambers are mounted, which are fixed in the same way as previous ones.
  • 20, as well as 21 row plays according to the scheme.
  • 22 row. Mounting another two-door cleaning cameras is made.
  • 23 row. Masonry goes according to the scheme.
  • 24 row. The smoke valve is installed, the frame of which is mounted on the solution.

Order from 25 to 33 row

Order from 25 to 33 row

  • 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent channel of the chimney, the second smoke valve is mounted.
  • 26 row. Installation of the door of the sewage chamber is made.
  • From 27 to 30 rows are made according to the scheme.
  • 31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is established.
  • 32-33 rows. In this area of ​​construction, the transition to the lays down the pipe, which rises to the ceiling.

When the pipe is wiring through the attic overlap, it is necessary to isolate combustible design materials from it. To do this, a metal box with sides of the height of the overlap 100 ÷ 120 mm is arranged around the chimney. This "difference" remains in the attic room.

If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when the brick masonry is still a wet solution in the seams are expanded by a special tool, that is, it gives a neat convex or concave shape.

The stove is "Swedie" can be supplemented with warm laying. This interesting project is presented on video.

You may be interested in information on how to build a brick oven for giving

Highlights of the output of chimney

There is no smoke without a furnace, but an oven without chimney. For the removal of gases allocated during burning, the chimney is needed. It is manufactured from the same material as the furnace is not for beauty, but because the thermal expansion coefficient differs from various materials. If you constantly heat the metal during the furnace, and the brick between them is a gap. Therefore, the whole design is placed in one brick.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

The warmth of the warmth of the brick chimney will save. It will output gases for the walls of the dwelling, and the accumulated heat will give inside gradually.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

The miscalculation should be held at the project stage of the entire stove. It is difficult to attach a tanning tube to the finished base. Such a project should prepare a qualified liver. Then the furnace will work as a single organism, high quality and long serve to his home.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Now that the principle of operation of the furnace is known to us, we think over the location of the chimney. The passage of chimney through wooden floors should be reliable, since the hot walls of the pipe are located near the flammable fitness. Unacceptably contact chimney and tree. It is also important that the chimney does not come into contact with wallpaper, electrical wiring or gas pipes.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

For an isolated chimney, 15 centimeters are observed between the crate or shut-off lags, for not isolated - 30 centimeters.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Useful advice

Before you start laying, you should consult with experienced professionals that can help various advice.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

In particular, they indicate such factors that are important in the construction of the furnace:

It is necessary to place the furnace so that you can get free to any wall. This is important from the point of view of operation and safety.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

During the construction, you need to make a foundation base that will not be associated with the foundation of the house itself.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

The chimney should pass inside the previous attic beams (during the design of the house, such an option must be taken into account). If the furnace is already being built in the house built, then this issue is being worked out before booking the foundation base.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

    To avoid the emergence of a fire, there are durable flooring from the heat-resistant materials.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Using these prompts, a person will be able to competently and the most important thing is to properly build a design that will heat it in the coldest days of the year.

Brick oven for home (115 photos): Instructions for installation with your own hands, stove drawings

Sources

  • https://www.tproekt.com/kak-sdelat-pech-iz-kirpicha-dlya-doma-svoimi-rukami/
  • https://www.rmnt.ru/story/fireplaces/kirpichnaja-pech-dlja-doma-svoimi-rukami-poshagovaja-instruktsija-sfot.942632/
  • https://otopleniehouse.ru/kirpichnaya-pech/
  • https://teplospec.com/pechi-kaminy/kakaya-dlya-doma-pech-dlya-doma-luchshe-vidy-preimushchestva-i-nedostatki.html
  • https://remont-system.ru/pechi-i-kaminy/vidy-pechey-iz-kirpicha-doma-doma.
  • https://gidpopechkam.ru/pechki/kirpichnye-doma-doma-na-drovex.html.
  • https://materialyinfo.ru/pech-iz-kirpicha/
  • https://www.sdvor.com/articles/kak-slozhit-pech-iz-kirpicha-svoimi-rukami/
  • https://otoplenie-expert.com/kirpichnye-pechi/kirpichnye-pechi-dlya-doma-chertezhi-s-poryadovkami.html
  • http://sdelaikamin.ru/pechi/kak-izgotovit-podovuyu-pech-svoimi-rukami-instrukciya-po-kladke.

The section presents the 40 most common furnaces in Russia, detailed Drawings, schemes, spokes, video and description of each characteristics Furnaces and fireplace . We fully guarantee that all Ready drawings stoves From this section, we are tested by time, experienced cooks and correspond to the bottom. Thanks to them with Primary theoretical knowledge Heads of furnaces and fireplaces will be in force Build your own hands First stove. Each drawing is attached to a detailed description of order masonry, basic errors arising when working with clay solution.

Deal schemes-drawings of furnaces and fireplaces

Below you see the open menu of finished drawings of furnaces and fireplaces posted on our website absolutely free:

    1. Round oven in metal case
    2. Small from-var furnace with oven
    3. Heat-boiled ovens
    4. Small height-vochk
    5. Buslaev furnace
    6. Country furnace
    7. T-shaped furnace
    8. Economy furnace
    9. Right. Breakless oven.
    10. Rectangular heating stove
    11. Heating and cooking furnace design I.F. Volkov Grove-Grrysyloil furnace
    12. Rectangular oven
    13. Russian oven.
    14. Laying Furnace "Swedish" Buslaeva (laying coach)
    15. Furnace Holland (scheme + description).
    16. Croskurin furnace (learning video »stoves masonry»)
    17. Rectangular heating stove with three vertical channels
    18. Unusual triangular oven.
    19. Brick bath oven with an open stone and water boiler .
    20. Simple brick oven for big bath
    21. Heating oven with lower heating (3x2,5 bricks)
    22. Heating and cooking furnace of the lower warm-up 7.5kw power (5x4,5 brick)
    23. Brick oven for heating garage 7,2kW. (2.5x8.5 bricks)
    24. Bath furnace Kamenka Porfiryev (4x5 bricks) - Bathroom with an area of ​​12 meters .
    25. Russian oven of the lower warm-up with a stove (5x4,5 bricks) .
    26. Russian Porphyrian furnace with left furnace (5,5х5,5 brick-8.2 kW)
    27. Combined heating and cooking furnace with fireplace (4,5x5,5 bricks)
    28. Universal heating and cooking furnace "Muscovite" (3,2х2,5 bricks) - I recommend.
    29. Caminopowley with front furnace, stove and oven. (5x2.5 bricks).
    30. Very simple bath stove with an open 4x2.5 brick stain.
    31. Masonry of the heating furnace Holland 3x4,5 brick .
    32. Laying of the country furnace 4x3.5 bricks based on a detailed video (11 thousand rubles)
    33. Russian oven with lower heating and fiberglass 5x4.5 bricks.
    34. Caminopowen 3.5x4.5 bricks with a glass door .
    35. Swedie A.Batsulina Two-Clapkin
    36. Bath furnace-heater 3x3,5 brick trip
    37. Russian symmetric furnace A.emshanova.

Types of dealers and drawings of the section:

color graphic indicating the number of materials

Osnovaremonta.ru.

Osnovaremonta.ru.

-classical black and white

OsnovaEmonta.ru.

OsnovaEmonta.ru.

-Begen black white

Osnovaremonta.ru.

Osnovaremonta.ru.

-Theless drawing

Osnovaremonta.ru.

Osnovaremonta.ru.

Let me remind you that this, the section will be equally useful and beginners and already experienced songs-bricklayers. Study in detail, choose the most appropriate and not lacking the next year, proceed to the masonry, do not forget then unsubscribe in comments about your success

Despite the fact that in very many private houses today are those or other systems of heating, brick heating structures do not lose their popularity. On the contrary, engineers and folk crafts are being developed by all new furnace models, more compact, including various functions. Indeed, the furnace heating will never be superfluous for a private house, as it will be able to rescue the owners in different situations. For example, in the fall or in the spring, when the nights are cold, but it seems to include autonomous heating, the drowning oven will create a cozy atmosphere in the rooms and relieve them from excessive humidity. The oven will help maintain the optimally favorable atmosphere and the temperature balance, comfortable for a person.

How to fold the oven do it yourself drawings
How to fold the oven do it yourself drawings

Therefore, a search query about how to fold the oven with your own hands the drawings of which will tell in detail about the correct sequence of masonry work, does not come down from the pages of the Internet. Today, even those people who do not have the experience of the liver, show the desire to try their strength in this craft. If it is decided to install the furnace in the house with its own forces, then beginners it is recommended to choose a simple version of this facility with an understandable order.

In addition to the availability of the structure, when the furnace model is selected, attention should be paid to its heat capacity, that is, it is designed for heating. It is important to take into account the functionality of the structure and decide what I would like to get from it.

Varieties of brick stoves

There are several main types of furnaces - some of them perform only one main task - this is heated at home, others are used only for cooking, and the third includes several functions in their "set of features". Therefore, in order to decide on the desired model, you need to know what is each of the species.

  • Heating and cooking is capable of not only to warm one or two rooms, but also help to cook food and boil the water. If the model is equipped with a brass cabinet and drying niche, then the possibility of bake bread appears, and peel vegetables and fruits for the winter.
The most versatile are heating and cooking furnaces.
The most versatile are heating and cooking furnaces.

The heating and cooking furnace is often embedded in the wall or itself performs the role of the wall - for this it is rotated by a slab and a firebox in the direction of the kitchen, and the back wall in the residential area of ​​the house. You can solve two problems immediately - the heating of the premises and the possibility of cooking in a separate room.

If the design is additionally equipped with a fireplace, the furnace will work not only as a functional structure, but it will become a decorative decoration of the house.

  • The heating variety of furnaces is designed only for the heating of the rooms at home. Some models have not only a fiber chamber, but also a fireplace. Thus, the furnace can function in two modes - when only one of the functions is used, or they are involved both simultaneously. Most often, the heating stoves are embedded in the wall between the rooms or are installed in the middle of one large hall, separating it into zones.
Heating stove
Heating stove

Such a building is being built for both the main heating of the house and as an additional, which is used in the spring and autumn period to maintain normal temperature and humidity in the rooms. The heating furnaces are usually established when the kitchen has already implemented its ability to prepare food, or in a large total area of ​​the house, where several furnaces perform various functions.

In the country area in a small house, it is better to establish a multifunctional structure that can help immediately in several situations.

  • The cooking furnace is erected in the kitchen, and its design is designed for quick cooking. However, this function does not deprive it and heating capabilities, since its entire body, the rear wall and the cast iron stove are well warmed, giving heat and room.
The main function of this stove - cooking
The main function of this stove - cooking

The cooking furnace is usually compact, so it is perfect for installing it in the country or in a small kitchen of a private house.

Having such a compact, but functional unit, one can exclude the risk to frozen or remain without dinner and hot tea, even if the electro- and gas supply is turned off.

A lot of different models of all listed types of furnaces have been developed. They can be completely miniature, and occupy a large area. Therefore, stopping at one of the models before stocking materials for its construction, you need to measure and draw it the base on the floor of the room in which it is planned to install it. Thus, it will be possible to visually determine how much the free space will remain in the room.

How to choose the right place to install the furnace?

So that the furnace worked effectively and maximally gave heat into the premises of the house, and was also a fireproof, it is necessary to choose the right location for it.

It is especially important to think about this moment if the furnace is embedded in the finished building, since the chimney pipe must pass between the ceiling overlap beams, and accidentally do not stumble upon them, so the installation option must be calculated as accurately as possible.

The furnace brick structure can be installed in different places of the room or between two rooms. What place it is better to choose - will be considered further.

  • To get the maximum effect from the furnace, you should not install it near the outer wall of the building, as it will cool quickly and can hardly be able to heat more than one room.
  • Some stove models are installed in the center of the room or shifting it from it in one or the other side. This location is selected if the room is required to divide into separate zones. Moreover, different sides of the furnace structure can have a different decorative finish, made in the style corresponding to the design of a particular area of ​​the room.
  • Quite often, the furnace is built into the wall between two or even three rooms, which makes it possible to use the heat generated as efficiently as possible. In this case, for the purpose of fire safety, it is very important to provide reliable insulation of the walls, the ceiling and the attic overlap at the point of passage of the chimney pipe.
  • When choosing a place of installation, it is necessary to envisage that each of the sides of the foundation under the furnace should be 100 ÷ 150 mm more than the base of the furnace itself.
  • To accurately determine the size of the base and height of the furnace, it is recommended to always select the model to which the order scheme is applied.

By choosing a furnace model and place for its installation, you can purchase all the necessary materials and prepare the necessary tools. The amount of materials will depend on the size and functional features of the furnace model, and masonry tools are always the same.

Tools required for masonry work

To work it will be necessary to prepare a very "solid" set of tools.
To work it will be necessary to prepare a very "solid" set of tools.

From the tools for masonry brick and fill the foundation, you will need:

  • Rule - This tool is used to align the surface of the basement with concumen.
  • Kirk's hammer is necessary for splitting and trimming bricks.
  • Veel is a wooden blade, which is used for rubbing the clay and lime solution.
  • The furnace hammer is used to split the brick and removing the dried, speaking outside the masonry of the solution.
  • Makeup made of urine is intended to clean the internal furnace channels from sand and solution in them.
  • The lead drain is needed for marking in the event that the furnace is separated by tiles.
  • The construction level is necessary to control the levels of rows and the surface of the walls.
  • The diaper is the rod applied for marking.
  • The plumb is a cord with a load, designed to check the verticality of the output surfaces.
  • Building corner with a ruler to verify the correctness of external and internal angles, as they must be perfectly straight.
  • Pliers are used to bend and bite the wire for fixing the cast-iron elements of the furnace in the seams of masonry.
  • Raspil - This tool is used to remove the influx and wrecking lumps in the dried masonry.
  • The chisel is used to split the brick and the parsing of old masonry.
  • The rubber hammer is necessary for the alignment of the brick-labeled solution.
  • Kelma (workflows) of different sizes are used to apply a solution when laying bricks and removing the mixture speaking from seams.
  • Fishing - a tool for aligning the solution in the seams of masonry. It is used if the laying is produced "under the extection", without further lining.
  • Manual tamping will be required to seal the soil and layers of frustration in the pit for the foundation.
  • Capacities for kneading the solution and pure water.
  • Sieve with a metal mesh for sand sifting.
Goats will facilitate the layout of the top rows
Goats will facilitate the layout of the top rows
  • Stand for the convenience of working at height, called "goats". The surface of this device has sufficient size not only for comfortable movement of the wizard, but also for the installation of a container filled with a solution.

Foundation arrangement for brick stove

The foundation for the furnace is usually preparing together with the foundation of the house, but they should not be in contact with each other, and even more so - to be combined into a single design. New foundations, as a rule, give a shrinkage that can lead to deformation of one of them, and this will pull the damage to the other. That is why they should be installed necessarily separately from each other.

In the event of an end of the oven in the already built house with a wooden floor, you will have to do a fairly large-scale work. In the place where the furnace will be installed, the floorboards will have to be removed, drinking the hole to the size of the future foundation.

If the foundation under the house is monolithic, and the selected furnace model is not too massive, then the design can be erected on it, the material for waterproofing is pre-installed.

The foundation should be in the form of the base of the furnace, however, as mentioned above, each of its parties is made greater than the furnace at 100 ÷ 150 mm.

  • If the floor in the wooden house, it makes the markup on which the boards will be peeling.
  • Then in the soil of the sample in the form of the future foundation rotates, the depth of which can vary from 450 to 700 mm, depending on the composition of the soil.
  • The bottom of the pit is rambling, and its walls are lined with a polyethylene film or rubberoid.
Drive with a layer of waterproofing on the walls and a sandy-gravel pillow at the bottom
Drive with a layer of waterproofing on the walls and a sandy-gravel pillow at the bottom
  • Then, a sand pillow is 100 ÷ 150 mm thick on the bottom, depending on the depth of the pit, and is well compacted with a manual tamper.
  • The next layer, on top of the sand, is falling asleep rubbing, which, too, if possible, is rambling. This layer can be from 150 to 200 mm.
  • Next, a wooden formwork in the form of a box is installed along the perimeter of the pit. Moreover, polyethylene or rubberoid remain inside it, and then fixed on the walls using a stapler and brackets. This waterproof material will keep the solution flooded into the formwork, not giving to leave it moisture, which will give the plate the opportunity to dry and harden evenly.
  • The foundation should have a height of approximately 250 mm below the level of "clean" floor, that is, the finished base will need to put two rows of bricks so that it rises to the floor with the floor.
  • Some wizards in order to save brick, on the contrary, raise the foundation above the floor by 80 ÷ 100 mm. The convenience of such a solution consists also in a simpler docking of the side walls of the foundation with the surface of the floor coating.
  • The next step in the formwork, for its entire height, the reinforcement grille is installed, made of 4 ÷ 6 mm thick with a thickness of 4 ÷ 6 mm. The bars are associated with a wire twist.
  • Further, in the lower part of the formwork, a rough concrete solution, mixed from cement and gravel, can be pouring into a thickness of 250 ÷ 300 mm in the proportions of 1: 3, or cement, rubble of the middle fraction with the addition of sand in a 1: 2 ratio: 1. But, In principle, a conventional concrete solution from sand and cement can be used.
  • If the coarse mixture is poured down, then immediately, without waiting for its setting, the thinly mixed solution is laid on top.
  • The bolted concrete mixture is aligned with the rule on the upper grades of the formwork boards, after which it is recommended to put and drown on 15 ÷ 20 mm into the solution of the reinforcing mesh with cells of 50 mm.
The upper reinforcing belt can simply be triggered in the freshlylated concrete solution.
The upper reinforcing belt can simply be triggered in the freshlylated concrete solution.
  • The surface of the foundation is resurrected again, and, if necessary, a concrete solution is added to the formwork, on top of the grid.
  • Further, the foundation leaves to stick and recruit strength - this process will take from three weeks to a month, depending on the thickness of the layer of the flooded solution. So that concrete is more durable, recommended daily during the first week, starting from the second day, spray it with water.
  • From the top of the frozen foundation, waterproofing, consisting of two or three rubber carriad sheets, which are stacked by one to another.
The masonry will be carried out only on the layer of wall insulation (rubberoid)
The masonry will be carried out only on the layer of wall insulation (rubberoid)
  • To start laying the first row, it is recommended to make marking on the waterproofing material, denoting the location of the base of the furnace. Due to the outlined perimeter of the base, it will be much easier to assemble the first row of bricks and observe the solidity of the parties and the corners.

After these preparatory work, you can go to the masonry.

Dry masonry

Even experienced masters, starting the laying unfamiliar to this design, first produce it dry, that is, without a solution. This process helps to figure out the intra channels of the furnace and do not make mistakes during the main masonry. Every majority rises dryly, each of the rows should be posted in accordance with the furnace applied to the model.

Performing dry masonry, it is necessary to observe the thickness of horizontal and vertical rows. In order for this parameter to withstand the same throughout the masonry, you can use 5 mm thick racks. Of course, the vertical seams will be difficult to measure with small segments of the ridges when drunk dry, so they will have to be determined visually, but for horizontal seams, the rails need to be used. Applying them, after laying out the last row of the design, you can see the real height of the furnace.

As an example of using the RESEK, you can consider this photo.

Holding the width of horizontal and vertical seams using calibration rails
Holding the width of horizontal and vertical seams using calibration rails

It is especially important to adhere to a single thickness of the seams if the masonry is performed under the extection, and will not be further separated by additional decorative materials.

Mastering dry, it is important to understand the channel configuration through which the smoke will go from the furnace, and climb the pipe. If, when laying out this passage, an error will be made, you will have to shift a part or even the entire design of the furnace, as the reverse thrust can be formed, and the room smoke will go.

Having lifted the oven dryly before the laying of the chimney pipe, the design disassemble. Moreover, if not only the whole bricks were used in the ranks, but also their small fragments, then during disassembly, each of the rows can be folded in a separate stack, putting a number of rows on one of the bricks. Sometimes, additionally, the brick number is also affixed in each of the ranks. Such a system will accelerate the work, since all the material will be fitted and decomposed in the right order, and will remain only to soak it alternately and put into the ranks of the furnace, but already per solution.

Performing basic masonry, two rails are installed on the edges of the previous series, between which the solution of 60 ÷ 70 mm thick is applied. Then the brick of the top row is put on it, aligns and embarrassment until it is stored in the rail. It is necessary to have such calibration devices into three rows, since it is possible to pull it out of the seam only after grapping the solution. So, laying out three rows, the rails pull out of the lowest seam, clean and laid on the fourth - and so on. If there is no confidence that the vertical seams are the same thickness, for them you can also prepare a short rail, which will be rearranged in the next seam immediately after aligning two adjacent bricks.

Optimally have a set of calibration racks for three rows
Optimally have a set of calibration racks for three rows

After pulling out the calibration peeks from the seam, there will be a fairly deep gap between the bricks. It is filled with a solution, which is cleaned by a trowel, and then put in order using the bunch.

Shavi processing "under the extection"
Processing of seams "under the extection"

If the calibration rails laid out of both edges of the brick, then the inner side of the wall will also leave the recesses between the seams. They are also needed to carefully close, since the seams should be hermetic, filled with a solution across the entire width of the brick.

It is very important, performing masonry on the solution, check each of the placed rows by the construction level so that the entire design does not occur.

Such simple auxiliary devices, as calibration rails, will help perform the masonry gently with the same width of the seams. Therefore, the entire furnace surface will look like the design is made by a professional master.

These nuances will help simplify the process of building a furnace structure, avoid errors that can lead to the need to rewar throughout work.

Brick stove construction schemes

O. O. Proskurin with Hepiculture and Hall Functions and Drying Chamber

A model developed by the engineer Y. Solkurin can be called one of the simplest structures of the heating and cooking furnaces, which even a novice master can be mastered. Despite the compact sizes of the structure, the stove is able to fulfill all the functions necessary for a small home, since it is equipped with a hob and a chamber for drying, which, if desired, can be replaced with a water tank.

Compact, but very functional oven Y. Proskurin
Compact, but very functional oven Y. Proskurin

Such a furnace is able to warm one or two rooms with a total area of ​​17 ÷ 20 m², so it can be built into the wall between the kitchen and one of the small rooms at home. At the same time, it is definitely necessary to orient in such a way that the design is deployed to the stove toward the kitchen room.

The dimensions of this heating structure, without the height of the chimney, are 750 × 630 × 2070 mm. The stove has two modes of operation - winter and summer, which allows for the warm season to use only the hob, without unnecessary heating of the whole house. The heat transfer from the furnace with its full-fledged protostka is 1700 kcal / h.

The following materials will be required to build this heating structure:

Name of materials and elements Quantity (pcs.) Sizes of elements (mm)
Red brick M-200 (excluding pipe masonry) 281 ÷ 285. 250 × 120 × 65
Chamotte brick refractory brand sh-8 82 ÷ 85. 250 × 120 × 65
Opening door 1210 × 250.
Doors for cleaning channels 2140 × 140.
Door for confused 1140 × 250.
Summer stroke valve for chimney 1130 × 130.
Flashing 1130 × 130.
Hob 1130 × 130.
Colonnik. 1200 × 300.
Single-mounted cooking panel 1410 × 340.
Steel band 140 × 260 × 5
140 × 350 × 5
140 × 360 × 5
Steel corner 140 × 40 × 635
340 × 40 × 510
440 × 40 × 350
Roofing iron 1380 × 310.
Foremost metal sheet 1500 × 700.

To fill the foundation it will be necessary to prepare cement, crushed stone, sand, gravel, rubberoid, reinforcement rod or steel wire with a thickness of 5 ÷ 6 mm. If it is decided to replace the drying chamber on the hot water tank, you will have to purchase or make it.

So that work has passed successfully, before it began, it is strongly recommended to learn my friend very carefully, and in the process of masonry to keep this scheme is always at hand.

Furnace Scheme Crosurin with cuts
Furnace Scheme Crosurin with cuts

In this illustration, this furnace is schematically represented in several cuts. Here you can clearly consider how the chimney channels pass inside the design, trace the movement of smoke from the furnace to the chimney pipe.

Illustration (order) Brief description of the operation
PP1The first row is solid, it is laid out according to the configuration submitted on the scheme. The row should be perfectly even, since the reliability and durability of the entire structure will depend on its proper masonry. The series consists of 15 bricks.
PP2Second row. At this stage, the form of the ash bar is laid (a subpend chamber) and the bottom part of the two channels that will be vertically. Laying the row, leave the openings to install the door of the pensive and the clean cameras. On the same row they are installed. The row is laid out of 13 bricks.
PP3In the cast iron doors, for their fixing in the masonry, special ears are provided in which the harvested segments of the wire are inserted. Further, their ends twist together and fit into the seams between the side walls. To make the door not shifted from the installation site until its fully fixation, it is temporarily supported by bricks.
PP4The third row is laid out according to the scheme. It raises the walls of the pensive and the cleft chamber, and in the seams between the rows of bricks, the ends of the wire are fixed, with which the doors are fixed. For the masonry of the row, there will be 13 red bricks.
PP5Fourth row. The camera of vertical channels is divided into two, as they will be laid out separately. Channel cross-section over their entire height will be 80 × 120 mm. In addition, this row is overlapping the installed door. It is necessary to prepare 13 red bricks.
PP6The laying of the fifth row is made by refractory chamotted brick, as it is the formation of the lower part of the furnace. In bricks that determine the place of laying a grate grid, from the inner of their edge, is made at right angles. The cutout size should be approximately 10 × 10 mm ± 1 mm. Prepared bricks are stacked above the infideling chamber. For the masonry of the row, 16 chamotte bricks will be required.
PP7After that, in the fifth row in the prepared deepening in bricks, a grate is established. It is sometimes mounted on a clay solution, but often - completely without a solution. In the latter case, the gaps between the grid and the brick, which should be about 3 ÷ 5 mm, are filled with sand.
PP8Sixth row. The walls of two vertical channels continue to form, and the walls of the furnace begin to be erected. The laying is carried out only with chamotte brick. The series consists of 12 chamotte bricks.
PP9Further, on the sixth row, the coil door is mounted, which, as well as confusing, is fixed with wire in the seams of the side walls. However, the coil door before installation is equipped with not only wire mounts, but also wrapped around the perimeter asbestos cord. This process must be carried out to create a heat gap, which will allow expanding the metal during its strong heating.
PP10The seventh and eighth rows are laid out of 12 refractory bricks each and correspond to a co-order scheme. During their laying, the walls of the furnace continue to rise and the vertical channels are formed. It is clear that the laying of bricks in the ranks goes firstwarding.
PP11When laying a ninth row, the door of the furnace chamber overlaps. To remove the load from the cast-iron door, with bricks installed on the side walls, the edges turned towards the heat chamber are cut under the same angle of 30˚. These sections will serve as a peculiar stand for the middle brick cut from both sides at an angle of 60˚, that is, it should be perfectly signed between two extreme bricks. 12 chammatory bricks will be required to the row.
PP12On the tenth row, the fuel chamber is combined with an extreme vertical channel, since the smoke formed in the furnace went to this hole. In order to provide the smoothness of the stroke of hot air, on the middle brick, separating the flue hole and the closed channel, the cutting corner is made. For this row, 11 chamotte bricks will be required.
PP13On the eleventh row, the masonry, going around the heat chamber, is distinguished by the fact that it uses bricks with a cut-out bricks at 10 × 20 mm. This step is designed to lay the cooking panel. For masonry will need 11 chamotte bricks.
PP14After the 11th row is posted, the step on the bricks will be supplied with asbestos stripes or layer of clay, 3 ÷ 4 mm thick (under the condition of the thickness of the cooking panel in 5 mm). These gaskets will serve as a pillow and a thermal gap for the hob. Then, a cooking panel is installed on the place prepared for it. From the side where the cooking chamber will be formed, the angular part of the masonry is strengthened with a metal corner.
PP15From the twelfth row, the masonry will be made only with red bricks. At this stage, the walls of the cooking chamber are laid, and again closes the jumper open earlier vertical channel. For the masonry of this series you need to prepare 10 bricks.
PP16The 13th row is laid out according to the scheme, but in the outer part of the first vertical channel is formed a place to install a gate, designed to switch the furnace modes to a winter or summer course. To do this, cutches are made in the brick to deepen the metal element. Further, on the prepared place, the stationary part of the chimney valve is fixed on the clay-sandy solution. The row is laid out of 10 bricks.
PP17The 14th ÷ 18th row - for each of them it will take 10 bricks. The masonry on these rows has the same configuration, taking into account the dressing, and forms vertical channels and a cooking chamber.
PP18On the 18th row, the cooking chamber overlaps three steel corners, which form the basis for the masonry of the following rows. One of these elements is installed on the edge of the "ceiling" of the cooking chamber, the second turns to the first and is set at a distance from it in 250 mm (the size of the brick), and the third corner of the back side is pressed to the second. Looking at this design, it is quite possible to understand how bricks should be laid.
PP1919th row. Laying it, 12 bricks overlap the cooking chamber, but the hill of the hood of the steam is formed above it, in which the valve will be installed. To install this item in the edges of bricks installed on three sides, cuts are made, and from the external brick is removed by layer, making it thick less. Further on the prepared platform on the clay solution fixes the valve.
PP20The 20th row is postponed according to the presented scheme. At this stage, the installed valve is overlapped, and channel holes are formed. The side brick in the first vertical channel is shy for a smooth flow of heated air. For a number it will take 15 bricks.
PP21On the 21st row, the first vertical channel and a hole for the vapor chamber pair is combined into the overall space. The masonry is carried out around the perimeter of the furnace, the brick is installed in the form of walls, and the second vertical channel is framed. Moreover, the angular inner brick is cut off to ensure smooth care of steam into the chimney pipe. For masonry you need to prepare 11 bricks.
PP22Further, on the same row it is overlapping the resulting space with steel stripes, which will provide the basis for the installation of the metal plate and the masonry of the following rows.
PP23The next step, which is performed on the same row is the installation of a plate of roofing iron. With the help of it, a chimney hole is formed, located in the opposite side from the window to exit the steam from the hob.
PP24On the 22nd row of brick masonry, a metal plate is overlapped. Next, the laying is carried out according to the scheme. Only channel holes remain open. Then, from the outside of the furnace, a metal corner is installed, which will strengthen the front of the bottom of the drying chamber. It will take 15 bricks on the laying of a row.
PP25The 23rd row - the walls of the drying chamber are formed. Its rear wall makes out of the brick installed side - it will separate the camera from the opening of the chimney channel. 12 bricks are used.
PP26.On the 24th row of 11 bricks, the walls of the chimney and two vertical channels are formed, as well as the drying chamber.
PP27The 25th row - the work continues according to the scheme, the masonry is made of 12 bricks. The second brick of the rear wall of the drying chamber is installed in the same way as the first, on the side.
PP28.26th row. At this stage, vertical channels are prepared for combining into one space, so for the direction of smoke in the desired direction of bricks in the vertical channels are cut under a small angle. For laying a number, 11 bricks will be required.
PP29On the 27th row, with a masonry, two vertical channels are combined, and a clear door is installed on this general camera. The rear wall of the drying chamber rises another brick, which is installed on the side. The series consists of 11 bricks.
PP30On a 28th row, consisting of 10 bricks, a masonry is performed according to a scheme similar to 27 nearby. And then three metal corners overlap the space of the drying chamber.
PP31On the 29th row, all practically the area overlaps with brickwork, which is mounted in accordance with the scheme. It is left open only a hole above the drying chamber, where the valve will be installed in sections made on bricks framing this opening. The outer brick is cut, making less than its thickness. In the arrangement of the "nest" on the clay solution is installed valve. The series consists of 17 bricks.
PP32The 30th row, consisting of 16 bricks, completely overlaps the surface of the furnace. The exception is only the chimney hole, the size of which is equal to half the brick.
PP33For 31 ÷ 32rd rows, a chimney begins to form.

If it is decided to make the installation of the furnace independently, then work should be carried out in slowly, approaching each stage of the process with full responsibility and maximum accuracy. Subject to all the recommendations and the provided scheme-co-order, even a novice master will be able to cope with this work and gain experience for new creations.

And at the end of the article - another example of masonry a miniature brick furnace for a country house.

Video: Compact brick oven for small kitchen

There are a large number of diverse furnaces that can serve both for heating and for heating at home and cooking. Some projects are stoves Enough Volumeful and massive, others Compact, and for a particular room, the desired option is selected, which will be most effective for this area. In addition, any of the furnaces should be installed with the mandatory Accounting Requirements developed by experts according to SNIP 41-01-2003.

Brick furnaces for home drawings with coaches

Brick furnaces for home drawings with coaches

In the contemporary information space, brick furnaces for the house drawings can always be found on the Internet. However, it is necessary to remember that it is quite difficult to build this structure, since each kinder has its own developments and professional secrets that are purchased only with experience.

Criteria for selecting a brick oven

If a Still It was decided to produce such a job independently, it is necessary to decide With a model - with knowledge of the case, turning attention not only to the appearance and design of the furnace, but also on her Heating abilities in relation to the room, which it will have to damn.

When choosing a furnace in size, you need to consider the side her The walls give more heat than the front and rear. This factor must be foreseen by planning the installation of the stove in one location.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by her form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a layman or Kitchen Plates and others.

The furnaces can only be used for heating residential rooms and installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a separation wall between the living rooms and the kitchen.

For premises with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, but it will take too much useful places that can be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house also plays a major role, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building.

Furnace selection table depending from OT Applicable area and location of rooms:

Room Square, m² Furnace surface, m²
Not an angular room inside the house Single angle room Outdoor room Parishion
81.25 1.95 2.1 3.4.
ten 1.5 2.4. 2.6. 4.5.
15 2.3. 3.4. 3.9. 6
20 3.2. 4.2. 4.6. -
25. 4.6. 6.9 7.8. -

All these criteria should be predetermined in advance, and, based on them, you should make a choice in favor of one or another model.

Types of brick furnaces

As mentioned above, the design of the furnaces can be different And very difficult to erect, and quite simple. The most famous of the models It is "Holland", "Swedie", "Russian". Modifications called the names of their designers are widely popular. So, the kukov, Podgorodnikova, Kuznetsova and other masters are very common.

Perhaps you will be interested in information on how to build a kuznetsov furnace with your own hands.

Oven performing only heating functions

Oven performing only heating functions

  • There are heating furnaces that do not have a hob and other elements, and consist only from the walls in which chimney channels, fireboxes, puff and cleaning chambers pass.
Example of a heating and cooking furnace

Example of a heating and cooking furnace

  • Heating and cooking furnaces have a stove in their design for cooking, sometimes Oven, water tank and drying chamber.
Oven-fireplace

Oven-fireplace

  • Still One type of heating is a furnace-fireplace, which has two fireboxes in its design fireplace and oven. This model can be used by flashing only one of the furnaces or both at the same time.
Multifunctional brick oven with a bed

Multifunctional brick oven with a bed

  • There are also furnaces that include the entire complex necessary for human life as in summer and in winter. Often they are equipped with a heated bed, which can well serve as the basis for the bed.

You may be interested in information about what is Fireplace with water circuit heating

Prices for ready-made heating furnaces

Heating furnaces

Choosing a place to install the furnace

It is important to envisage and the right place to install the furnace. The optimal place is to cross the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all the rooms at the same time. It is desirable that the structure is not far from the entrance to the building, since the heat coming from it will create an obstacle for cold air coming from the entrance door. In addition, if the firebox door goes to the hallway, it is easier to deliver fuel to it, without bringing it through the whole house.

Where is the best place to place the oven?

Where is the best place to place the oven?

When choosing a place, you need to consider and still Several factors are important for the operation of the furnace:

  • Structure Must be Installed in such a way that there was free access to any of its walls. It must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the cameras.
  • When erecting the furnace, it is necessary to provide for HERE Separate foundation, not connected With the base of the house.
  • Chimney The pipe should pass between the beams of the attic overlap and do not stumble upon them when her raising This is provided for the construction of the house, and if the furnace is built in the finished building, then before booking the foundation under HERE .
  • For fire safety, on the floor, the heat-resistant flooring from a metal sheet or ceramic tile must be located on the floor before the furnace door.

Basic Brick Furnace Design

To know how each of the furnace elements works, and for which it is intended, it is necessary to consider the basic design of the heating structure:

Basic elements of a brick oven

Basic elements of a brick oven

  • The fuel chamber is designed for laying and burning fuel. It is separated from the infidel chamber of the grate Grid. And connected to the inner channels, according to which smoke and hot gases are followed throughout the oven, redirecting to the chimney pipe.
  • A configuration chamber provides an adjustable air supply to the furnace and is a collection of ash from burnt fuel, so it requires periodic cleaning.
  • Floor cabinet, cooking stove and water heating tank These elements are embedded in the heating and cooking furnaces.
  • Claimed cameras are needed, as they are going to a soot that crept from the walls chimney Channels passing inside the oven. Using them, periodic furnace cleaning is performed to maintain normal traction.
An example of the internal channels of the brick stove

An example of the internal channels of the brick stove

  • Chimney Channels passing inside the furnace can have a different configuration in different models. Hot gaseous combustion products ,Passing along them, heats the walls of the furnace, which give heat into the room.
  • Channels direct smoke with combustion products in chimney The pipe located at the very top of the furnace and then exiting the outside of the building.

One of the most important conditions for the effective work of the furnace is a good thrust, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the scheme-order and periodic cleaning in the construction during operation. In addition, it is necessary to observe the necessary height chimney Pipes and right her Roof location.

You may be interested in information about why bad thrust in the chimney of a wood-burning furnace

Materials for building oven

An important issue for the durable functioning of the furnace is the choice of high-quality materials for her Masonry, so you should not save on them. For the construction of the structure, it will be necessary:

  • Red refractory brick, the amount of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading should be carried out extremely neat.
  • Chamotte brick is used to masonry the heat chamber, directly in contact with Fire . It will be required from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact amount can be found from the schema of the selected model. This kind of brick is able to withstand the temperature of 1450-1500 °, it holds heat for a long time, gradually giving it the walls of the furnace.
  • Do not do in lifting the furnace and without a solution for masonry brick, which is made on the basis of clay. Pechers advise apply Borovichevsky The composition of the solution It is placed enough in the process of masonry and refractory during operation.
  • Cast iron elements These are the doors for the firebox, pondered and cleaning cameras, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking oven rises, then one will take or Two-competophoic Plate, oven and water heating tank provided by construction.
Basic set of cast iron stove elements

Basic set of cast iron stove elements

  • Steel wire for fastening cast iron elements in masonry.
  • Asbestos cord or sheet For laying between brick and metal items.

You may be interested in information on how to cut the cast-iron bath to make a cast iron furnace

Now, having become acquainted with some nuances of the construction of the furnace, you can consider several models that should be available for masonry even beginners.

Brick furnaces for home drawings with coaches

Heating furnace V. Bykov

This furnace is designed only for heating, as it does not provide for installing a plate or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for homes having a small area, as it is compact - takes little space, but at the same time there are even three rooms.

So externally looks the heating furnace of Bykov

So externally looks the heating furnace of Bykov

The structure of the structure is 510 × 1400 mm, when it is height without a pipe in 2150 mm. If you take a size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The furnace is quite simple in the masonry, as it does not have complex internal configurations. On the appearance she generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called her "Tolstoy warm Wall. The heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal / h, but at the same time on the side walls have to 920 kcal / h, and on the front and rear her Part of just 280 kcal / h. The cross-section of the chimney channel is 130 × 260 mm.

Thanks to its small width, the furnace fits perfectly between two rooms, leaving the front part to the third, for example, to the hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a heat source for them.

Furnace scheme assembly

Furnace scheme assembly

The whole design of this model is divided conditionally into two compartments. This is the upper gas feed and lower Film. Two channels pass at the bottom Ascending. They help heat the fuel part of the furnace and level the temperature in All Building preventing overheating.

Sing of the kiln Bykova

Sing of the kiln Bykova

The top of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided , on five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are overlapped with horizontally laid in masonry bricks. They create a kind of sieve, a delayed heat outlet directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the inner surface area of ​​the furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. She also contributes to the valve installed in the upper part, which regulates the output warm Air into the pipe.

For this model, the furnace will need the following materials:

  • Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
  • White chamotte brick Cha -8 197 pcs.
  • Machine door 210 × 250 mm - 1 pc.
  • Standing door 140 × 140 mm - 1 pc.
  • Doors of cleaning 140 × 140 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Grateful lattice 250 × 252 mm -1 pcs.
  • Chimney Lathe 130 × 250 mm -1 pcs.
  • Metal Lie ST DL I ran in front of the furnace, 500 size × 700 mm -1 pcs. Instead of a sheet can be laid a ceramic tile.

Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick stoves

Brick stoves

Furnace coach Bykova

The masonry of the furnace occurs on the prepared for HERE The foundation that must be size a greater base of the furnace 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The foundation in height should be lower than the first floor for two rows of masonry. Before the start of the masonry, it will be supplied by a layer of waterproofing - rubberoid.

Order Description of work
P01According to this scheme, two zero rows are represented, which are below the level of the first floor. For each of the rows, 22 red bricks will be required.
n02.Masonry located at one level with a clean floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted before furnace. The surface of the floor around the furnace is facing the heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
p11 row - a subdivile camera is formed. At the entrance to it, an armful brick is installed, which makes it easier to select the combustion waste. For the masonry of this row, 21 bricks need.
p2.2 row - when it is masonry, the door is installed attended and the camera itself continues to form. For the masonry of this row, 20 bricks will be required.
p3.3 row - a subdivile camera continues to form. The wire, fixed on the door of the door, is inserted into the laying seams. For a row, 19 whole bricks will need and 2 by ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door.
p4.4 row - bricks overlap the front of the subdivile chamber together with the door installed. In the rear of the design, the base of the swivel well begins to form. On this row will take 12 integers, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
p55 row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed above the subdivinal chamber of chamotte brick. In the front and rear part of the base, crane bricks are stacked, for which burning waste will be slipped into an agolate-infideling chamber through a grate installed on the same row. Between it and bricks should necessarily be leaving a 5 mm gap. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. 17 will need 17 and two bricks.
p66 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney of the well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of chamotte brick are used.
p7.7 row - the chimney the well is divided into two bricks. Bricks over the wells must be stesany. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and downward. In this row, 11 integers are used, 2 in ½ and 4 cut sliced ​​across the entire width of chamotte bricks.
p8.8 row stacked according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the difference is only the direction of the brick. 15 bricks will go to a row.
p99 row - two bricks overlap the fuel chamber door. This series will require 16 chamotte bricks. The back of the furnace is placed according to the scheme.
P1010 row - bricks fit according to the scheme in compliance with their direction. On this series you need 16 bricks.
p11.11 A row - brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel should be stanese from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. The range will require 12 integers, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ chamotte bricks.
p12.12 row - there is a union of the falling chimney channel and the fuel chamber. For a number you need 13 integers and 2 in ½ chamotte bricks.
p1313 row is placed, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 integers, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ chamotte bricks.
p14.14 row also stacked according to the scheme, 10 integers will be required and 6 in the brick.
p1515 row - using prepared bricks, size ¾, the narrowing of the fuel chamber is arranged, combined with a downward channel. The total number of used bricks 7 and 14 pieces in ¾.
p1616 row - bricks completely overlap the combined downstream channel and fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air top and fuel lower. For a number used 17 integers, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
p17.17 A row is laid out of red bricks. It is left in the opening of the upward channel, the crashing bricks are mounted in its edges. 14 integers are used, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
p18.18 row - a horizontal furnace channel is formed, it is the basis for mounting five channels that will go vertically. On the same row, the door of the clear chamber is installed. For a number, 8 integers are needed, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in the brick.
p1919 row - there is a formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure. It will be a continuation of the rising channel of the lower furnace. Bricks forming this channel, you need to take a distance from the bottom. 11 and 4 in the brick are used.
P2020 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Between the first and second channels, Polikirpich is mounted. This part in this row and in the following has a double purpose - is the basis for the next row and forms in the laying of the windows for heat exchange with walls and maintaining normal thrust. In the row used 7 integers, 3 in ½ and 8 in the brick.
P2121 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks stacked in the base of separating wall channels, shut down, as in previous cases. For a number, you will need 11 integers, 5 in ½ and 4 in the brick.
p2222 row is placed according to the scheme with compliance with the formation of channels. For a number you need 11 integers and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, a total of 17 pieces.
p2323 row is also placed according to the scheme and it is necessary to prepare 12 integers for it, 4 in ½ and 4 in the brick.
p2424 row - the wall laying is completed on this row between the second and first vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall is shy away from the two top sides of the male. For a number it will take 9 integers, 3 in ½ and 8 in the brick. In total, it is necessary to use 18 bricks, some of which are divided in two.
p2525 row - the wall laying between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The upper brick in the wall is shy on both sides. For masonry, 10 integers will be required, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks.
p2626 row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick wall is also shuffling on both sides. It is necessary to prepare 10 integers, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
p2727 row - work follows according to the scheme, and it requires 9 integers, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks.
P28.28 row - It uses bricks made in ¾ from whole bricks - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called the cap. For a number, 4 integers are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 crane spacing throughout the thickness.
p2929 row - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely overlap, except for the opening left for the chimney pipe. For its masonry, 17 integers will be required, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks.
p3030 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the discharge for the chimney. It uses 6 integers and 20 V ¾ bricks.
p3131 row is laid out according to the scheme and for it is prepared by 17 integers, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks.
p32.32 row - the first series of chimney pipe begins to be laid out, it will take 5 whole bricks for it.

Further, Gone Masonry cervical and "otters" pipes.

Furnace-fireplace "Swedie" A. Ryazankina

Positively popular, thanks to its effectiveness, the heating and cooking furnace of the Swedish type. Her The design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to drop the house, but also to prepare lunch.

Appearance "Swedish" Ryazankina

Appearance "Swedish" Ryazankina

Such a furnace is usually installed between the kitchen and the residential area of ​​the house, having her So that the cooking plate and oven are Rotated in the side of the kitchen. In some designs, "Swedish" from the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom, a fireplace is provided. It is this option that it is worth considering since it is excellent suitable as For a spacious and small structure, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

Front and rear furnace walls

Front and rear furnace walls

This furnace model is heated with firewood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height without accounting Pipes. It should also be envisaged that the portal of the fireplace will act beyond the structure of 130 mm. The foundation should be larger than the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. Power "Swede" Reaches 3000 kcal / hour.

For the construction of this model, the following materials will be required:

  • Red brick without accounting Pipe laying - 714 pcs.
  • Standing door 140 × 140 mm - 1 pc.
  • Door for the furnace chamber 210 × 250 mm - 1 pc.
  • Door for Clear Cameras 140 × 140 mm - 8 pcs.
  • Okrug cabinet 450 × 360 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
  • Two-door cast iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
  • Grateful lattice 200 × 300 mm - 1 pc.
  • Shifting valve 130 × 250 mm - 3 pcs.
  • Steel corner 50 × 50 × 5 × 1020 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 920 mm - 3 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 530 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Steel strip 50 × 5 × 480 mm - 2 pcs.
  • Lattice for fireplace, her You can make yourself from reinforcement rods.
  • Metal Lie ST DL I ran in front of the furnace 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
  • Asbestoset or cord for laying between metal elements and cloth bricks.

Masonry furnace

On the presented schemes, the location of all cast-iron elements of the fireplace furnace is shown in detail, and the masonry description will help avoid mistakes on some, quite complex, stages of work.

Location of the main elements of the furnace

Location of the main elements of the furnace

Experienced Masters-Bricklayers are recommended to perform the masonry of the entire furnace to start dry, that is, without a solution, adhering to the scheme and Take up In the configuration of each row. This process is especially important to conduct newcomers who are barely familiar with the work of the liver.

Still One cunning of experienced masters is a preliminary fit and laying of each of the rows without a solution during the work. Any row is first laid out, and if necessary, individual bricks are cut off or pose and then already produced Their laying per solution.

This approach will somewhat slow down work, but will allow you to perform her Much high quality, without errors that can negatively affect the creation of a normal traction.

Performing masonry, at hand you need to keep not only the scheme of each of the rows, but also drawing Furnaces in the context. It will also help - allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnace.

Cuts and gas movement scheme

Cuts and gas movement scheme

So, the laying is made as follows:

Order - from 1 to 6 row

Order - from 1 to 6 row

  • The first, solid row of the furnace, stacked on Steered on ready Foundation Ruberoid. It is very important to lay out a number perfectly and right, since the quality of the masonry of the whole design will depend on it. Therefore, first stands the belt Ruberoid to be placed using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing out on Nem. The shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, leaning on the scheme and observing the configuration of the styling of the brick, the first row is assembly, and then the masonry per solution.
  • 2 row. IN Nem. Metal elements consisting of segments of reinforcement, which will be fixed in the future with the help of welding lattice , or this decorative element NT VM Levels completely. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
  • 3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and confusion chamber are mounted, pre-wrapped asbestos Rope or covered asbestos. To fix the door on the ground, the wire is used, which is fought in the special loop-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the laying seams, where it is fixed with the solution and presses the upper round of bricks. Temporarily, before the final consolidation, the doors on both sides are mapped with bricks.
So the cast iron doors are installed

So the cast iron doors are installed

  • 4 row. Job Gone According to the scheme, but a number is notable for the fact that the doors from two sides are fixed with the masonry that you need to withdraw perfectly smoothly. Seam In this area can be on two three Millimeter is wider, due to the wire entangled in them.
  • 5 row is recommended to lay out with the use of chamotte fire-resistant brick, as well as all the walls of the furnace chamber. On the same row is mounted grateful lattice and the oven box, which is wrapped or plated asbestos, avoid her Premature exercise.
Asbestos gaskets on metal elements

Asbestos gaskets on metal elements

  • 6 row. The row is installed on this row, Inverted asbestos cord, and with wire segments recorded in it.
Order from 7 to 12 row

Order from 7 to 12 row

  • 7 row. The masonry is made according to the scheme, a steel band is mounted above the wall walls, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. Her Locked exactly or in the form of a half mart, giving it a necessary form in advance.
  • 8 and 9 ranks are laid out according to the scheme presented.
  • 10 row. The front wall of the furnace is strengthened, as a cast-iron cooking plate will be mounted in this part of the structure. A steel corner is fixed on the wall using two wire hooks, then the segments of the asbestos sheet are put on the installation site, and the stove itself is installed. The door is fixed in the same row. still One sewage chamber.
  • 11 I. 12 ranks laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row Gone Overlapping the door of the sewage chamber.
Order - from 13 to 24 row

Order - from 13 to 24 row

  • From 13 to 15 rows are put on the designed scheme, strictly adhering to the configuration of brick masonry.
  • 16 row. The device of the chamber walls is completed, located above the cooking plate, which overlaps with metal stripes. They will serve as the basis for laying the bricks of the next row.
  • 17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
  • 19 row. At this stage are mounted still Two two RCCs of sewage chambers that are fixed in the same way as previous ones.
  • 20, as well as 21 series Clauds according to the scheme.
  • 22 row. Mounting is made still two doors of cleaning cameras.
  • 23 row. Masonry Gone according to the scheme.
  • 24 row. Mounting is made chimney The valves, the frame of which is installed on the solution.
Order from 25 to 33 row

Order from 25 to 33 row

  • 25 row. Next to the first, to the adjacent channel of the chimney, mounted the second chimney Latch.
  • 26 row. Installation of the door of the sewage chamber is made.
  • From 27 to 30 rows Lay out according to the scheme.
  • 31 row. At this stage, the third, the last chimney Latch.
  • 32. 33 rows. In this area of ​​construction, the transition to the lays down the pipe, which rises to the ceiling.

When the pipe is wiring through the attic overlap, it is necessary to isolate from HERE combustible design materials. To do this, a metal box with sides of the height of the overlap 100 ÷ 120 mm is arranged around the chimney. This "difference" remains In the attic room.

If the walls of the furnace will not be covered with decorative material, then when making bricks still wet solution in seams are expanding special Tool , that is, it gives a neat convex or concave form.

Bake "Swedie" can be supplemented warm Lena. This interesting pro CT PR Easpled on video.

You may be interested in information on how to build a brick oven for giving

Video: Brick "Swedie" with Lena

And at the end of the article still One good advice. Before you decide on an independent building of the furnace, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended, to begin to practice in the usual masonry of bricks per solution. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance. You can learn the heating boilers on the long-burning firewood.

The Russian oven (brazovaya) is a unique building of our ancestors, which not only warms, but also feeds, treats, and also ventilates the room. In multivarrences in the details of the form, its main components remain unchanged. In the article, we will look at the design of the Russian oven and its ordering laying.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Even before the introduction of the modern measurement system, the traditional sizes of the Russian oven were calculated in Arches. 1 Arshin is approximately 71 cm. In the width, the furnace had 2 ARSHIN, in length - 3, and the height of the main body of the furnace on the base of the oven before the burdock was 2.5 ARSHIN.

Russian (oven) furnace

In the furnace you can allocate three main components:

  1. Foundation.
  2. Case.
  3. Chimney.

Foundation

Our ancestors were used for the foundation of the edge of a boot stone or a reddown brick. Without leaving far from the traditions of the past, consider the option of a boot concrete foundation under the furnace case.

The depth of the foundation for the furnace depends on the properties of the soils, whether the building is heated in the cold period of time, what is the level of groundwater. In the case of a non-permanent building of the building, the depth of the base of the foundation is provided below the depth of the fruit of the soil at the coldest time.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order 1 - the sole of the foundation; 2 - bay laying; 3 - bookmark depth; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - floor level; 6 - Array of oven

Boot concrete consists of a concrete mix and boob stone. For the foundation, it is enough to use the M200 concrete mixture. The M200 concrete mix is ​​obtained by the following composition:

  • Cement M400 - 1 part;
  • sand - 2 parts;
  • Gravel or rubble fraction less than 3 cm - 4 parts.

For the manufacture of concrete sand is taken with a minimum amount of organic, clay, dusty, mica impurities that significantly reduce the strength and frost-resistant properties of concrete.

Water poured into a dry mixture of cement, sand and gravel gradually, with constant mixing of the ingredients before reaching the necessary mobility of the mixture. In this case, the volume of water is approximately equal to the volume of the cement taken.

The foundation for the furnace can be constructed by both a formwork and a non-absorptic way with dense unsinking soils and the depth of the base of the foundation less than 1.25 m. In the case of a non-blank device, the size of the pit must match the size of the foundation. Under the sole of the foundation, it is necessary to lay a layer of the rambered rubble with a thickness of at least 10 cm.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The boot concrete masonry is the process of inserting a butte stone in a layer of laid concrete layer 20 cm high. The brownstone must be less than 30 cm, it is immersed in a layer of concrete to a depth of more than 1/2 of its height. The gap between the laid stones, as well as between the stone and the formwork, is 4-6 cm. When the layer of boot is fully laid, the next layer of concrete is labeled and the stone of the stone is repeated.

To achieve the full quality of concrete work, the breaks in the process of the foundation device are allowed only when the gaps between the stones are filled with the concrete of the last layer. In dry, windy or hot weather during breaks in work more than a day to prevent rapid drying, the concrete surface is covered by any material (you can be wrapped with water 3-4 times a day. Before resuming the operation, the surface of the last layer is purified by contamination and wetted with water.

Bridgestone can be replaced by red brick chips or pieces of concrete, a brick crushed stone can be a filler of the same concrete mix. Stones, brick wreckages Before immersing them in a concrete mixture, should be carefully cleaned of contamination. In the dry and frying weather in the case of using the broken brick, the fragments are soaked in water before laying.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The timing of the typing concrete strength depend on its temperature. At a temperature of 10 ° C in the first day, it will take about 10% of its complete strength, for 7 days about 60%, and in 28 days - 85%. With an increase in the temperature of the concrete, the timing of its total gaining strength is reduced. It is necessary to start a brick masonry on the surface of the foundation not earlier than 14-28 days later.

Corps of the furnace

In Russian hollow, the furnace was installed in the corner near the door. From one wall, approximately 20 cm retired, and from another, where the front door was located about 1 meter. In this place, the chunnel was often equipped, where products and kitchen utensils were stored.

On the surface of the foundation that collapsed, 2 layers of waterproofing material (rubberoid, only or other) are stacked. Next, the base of the furnace is laid out. In the classic Russian furnace of the past for this we used a wooden bar or log.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order 1 - SUN; 2 - substairs; 3 - sixth; 4 - under; 5 - dryers; 6 - overlapping; 7 - half-armed; 8 - catch; 9 - chimney pipe

The substairs served for storing kitchen utensils, and in the sub hocks put inventory for the furnace (grasp, kochergi, frying beds). Now this part of the furnace is laying out mainly of the brick (clay ordinary). And you need to use full. Brick happens face and ordinary. Facial is used for cladding, ordinary - for the inner masonry of the furnace. For surfaces in contact with open fire, it is necessary to use refractory brick (chamoten), which can withstand temperatures more than 1300 ° C.

Glino-sandy

The amount of sand in the clay-sandy solution is determined depending on the thickness of the clay (fat - 2-4% of sand, the average - 15% sand, skinny - 30% of sand). To achieve the highest quality masonry, the sand must be taken sideways through the sieve with 3x3 mm cells.

The proportions of the clay sandy solution:

  1. Grease clay: 1 clay bucket, 2.5 sand buckets.
  2. Medium clay: 1 clay bucket, 1.5 sand buckets.
  3. Skinny clay: 1 clay bucket, 1 sand bucket.

For the preparation of the solution into the container, several buckets of crushed clay are put and poured it with water for 24 hours. Then the portion-needed amount of sand is added to the splashing clay, constantly stirring to a homogeneous consistency.

Furnace Tools

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order 1 - the square; 2 - Kirk; 3 - chimmer; 4 - level; 5 - line; 6 - trowel; 7 - plumb

Materials

The design of the optic itself is made of clay ordinary brick on a cement-sandy solution based on cement M400, proportion: 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand. The required mobility of the solution can be checked by placing part of it on the shone of shovels at an angle of 45 °. In this position, the finished solution should not flow. Before starting masonry, bricks are soaked for better clutch with a solution.

For the entire design of the furnace, it will take about 1500 to 2500 pieces of bricks, including refractory, depending on the height of the room and the roof design. Consumption of clay and sand in the solution is about 80 buckets. From the furnace accessories will be required: views, valves and cholemakers.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The view is installed between the High and the pipe to overlap the passage of hot gases from the mountaineer to maintain heat into the furnace. At the place of installation of the view, the headwall is made for bookmark the Hase, which can be used and as natural ventilation of the room.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The flap for the furnace is necessary in order to cover the mouth, adjusting the thermal process in the furnace.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The valve is installed above the view to adjust the thrust in the pipe and prevent the possibility of cold air from the pipe to fall down.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Orders

The first row is placed on the waterproofing of the foundation. In the corners, bricks are used in size in 3/4 and beveled bricks for better dressings of subsequent rows of masonry. The entire design of the adhesive is laid out on cement-sandy solution.

Laying a Russian furnace with their own hands

The second row is the beginning of the masonry of the walls of the ovens.

Laying a Russian furnace with their own hands

Third row. The device of the wall walls continues with the use of bricks in 3/4.

Laying a Russian furnace with their own hands

The fourth row is laid out according to the address given and implies the use of beveled bricks for support (heels) of the Arch of Stern.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The fifth row is placed with the use of bricks in 3/4 in the corners of the furnace, beveled bricks for the support of the arch. Here the arch of the sun is laid out. The wooden template is pre-manufactured, which is inserted into the heading of the subground.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The sixth row is laid out according to the presented order. It is made in advance the wooden handset template, which is inserted into the inside of the masonry. In the process of making template It is necessary to provide its easy disassembly at the end of the masonry of the first form. For a dense fit of the template to the walls of the masonry below, 1-2 struts are driven down.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The seventh row involves laying an arch and subsequent series. The arch is beginning to lay out on both sides, gradually moving towards the middle. The last brick is called Castle, its role is to create a stress of compression at the base of the arch, which will ensure the strength of such a design. In this regard, the last brick is inserted into the interval of less than 1/4 bricks with the help of a pivot. Bricks in the arch fit as close as possible to each other, so the seams are made at the bottom as small as possible, and the upper gaps are performed the same size, in which, if possible, you can pour brick fragments.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The eighth row provides one layer of masonry of the walls of the Operation according to the given order with the arrangement of the Cold Steeper Platter.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Ninth row. In addition to one row of walls, the walls of the stub are laid out.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The tenth row completes the masonry of the hematic walls. For better insulation of the cold part of the kiln from its hot part, the inner space is covered with dry swamp sand to the upper limit of this row.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The eleventh row overlaps the heaps completely using a good and bevelled brick. From this row, the cement-sandy solution is replaced with clay sandy.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The twelfth row begins the device of the hot part of the furnace (under the sixth). Therefore, all surfaces in contact with fire must be made of fire-resistant bricks whose dimensions coincide with the size of the ordinary. The surface of the feed must be smooth. To do this, it is grinding it with fine sand and bricks, removing all the irregularities of the masonry. In addition, for the convenience of removing coal with a gift, its surface is made with a slope toward the mouth.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The thirteenth row lays the cooking chamber and the sixth. There is also an arc of the mouth of the hardened metal. The tempered steel wire attached to it is laid in the masonry.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth rows build the walls of the horn and the pile.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The seventeenth row is the mouthpiece in the masonry with an arched arch. At this stage, spits from bevelled bricks are laid out, which are supports for the brick hob of the cooking chamber, and the formwork of the hob of the cooking chamber is inserted.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The eighteenth row is laid out according to the principle of the arch, which is described in the seventh row using the clay and sandy solution and the refractory brick.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The nineteenth row suggests the walls of the walls and the Arches of the Six.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The twentieth row continues to extend the walls, and also partially overlaps the hole over the sixth, leaving the channel for overbreaking. The inner space above the cooking chamber is filled with dry calcined sand.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Twenty-first row overlaps the horn. The channel of overbreaking slightly decreases for the protrusion device, which prevents the penetration of sparks from the cooking space into the pipe. The scribbling canal begins here.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Twenty-second row completes the blocking device. A sovannik canvas establishes a sideways. Steel wire on its sleeve is climbing in the masonry.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Twenty-third row suggests the masonry of the channel of overbreaking and self-fishing. It is also attached to the dryers with a steel hardened wire. In this row, there is a small opening for cleaning the soot from the protrusion of a channel, which is covered with 1/2 bricks, put on the edge and crushed with clay mortar. During cleaning, this brick is knocked out, and at the end of cleaning it is replaced with a new one. Now they often put a special metal plug instead of bricks.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Twenty-fourth row is a continuation of the masonry of the above channels.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Twenty fifth row. In this row, the channel is allocated for installing the view.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The twenty-sixth row implies the extension channel extension, then the overhauls of the overhauls are overlapped and the master is installed.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The twenty-seventh row is laid out, as shown on the order. For access to the view opposite it is installed for a semicode.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

The twenty-eighth, twenty-ninth and thirtieth row suggest further masonry channels with sutures.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Thirty-first row, according to the coach, connects the dryers and the pipe through a narrow passage.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Thirty second row overlaps the dryers and the canal connecting the dryer with the pipe. There is also a valve for tubes over the pipe channel.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Thirty-third and subsequent rows before the ceiling suggest the laying of the pipe channel.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Without three rows before the ceiling, the cutting is made to increase the thickness of the brickwork. This increases the fire safety of wooden ceiling and roof designs. Next, the riser of the pipe is laid out the same size as the cutting. To avoid the accumulation of condensate on the pipe walls, the pipes are plastered along the metal grid. When the pipe passes through the wooden roof designs, the channel wall thickness also increases. The top of the pipe must be protected from the penetration of precipitation with a metal cap. The laying of the outer part of the pipe is carried out on cement-sandy solution. For strength, it can be plastered.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order 1 - cutting; 2 - overlapping; 3 - insulation; 4 - pipes; 5 - metal sheet; 6 - otter; 7 - cervical tube; 8 - headband; 9 - Metal Cap

The height of the outer part of the pipe to improve the thrust depends on its distance relative to the ridge of the roof.

Russian oven do it yourself: drawings and order

Furnace dryer

Before full-fledged oven, it must be dried. The first furnace is carried out within 2 hours with a small amount of fuel. If the oven gives a lot of smoke, then a small fire is lit on the view, when it goes out, the view is open completely. After that, the oven is lit again without closing the pipe for the night. The process of firebox drying lasts about a week.

RMNT.ru

01/28/16

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